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The Lion is Death Part I
By I J Larivers
Paramount among the things that go bump in the night under the command of the baleful Zambezi river god "Nyaminyami" are the mudzimu - the demon man-eating lions. Even now, the locals often ask Parks to deal with a mudzimu lion or two stalking people...
So, you’ve seen Ghost in the Darkness - one hundred and thirty souls spirited away by man-eating lions during the construction of the railway between Mombassa and Nairobi through Tsavo at the end of the 19th century - and you can hardly believe it could be a true story? Ha! Those kitties were amateurs - let’s turn back the pages of history and look at some of the real man-eaters along the Great North Road.
Following a number of kills which fit the Tsavo pattern pretty closely, and began to materially affect the construction of the road and the bridge, three hunters who were contracted to provide game meat were now tasked with the destruction of the lions. By the end of May, the score stood at Hunters 5: Lions 1, and of the two remaining hunters one was dying of septicaemia after having been badly mauled and the other was succumbing to the terminal stages of malaria.
There was a Seventh Day Adventist mission 40 miles away at Rukomechi. Two of the five former missionaries in this place that God had quite probably forgotten, lay buried there; the current missionary was a Dr Fraser, who had somehow survived for fifteen years. He had a formidable reputation as a lion hunter, for his flock were among the most primitive tribes in central Africa, the Batonga. They were staunchly animist in their spiritual beliefs and paramount among the things that went bump in the night under the command of the Zambezi river god Nyaminyami - who would rear his unquestionably ugly head decades later to attempt to thwart the construction of the Kariba dam - were the mudzimu - the demon man-eating lions. Dr Fraser’s approach for demonstrating the superiority of his God was the administration of lead injections to solve such lions’ mineral deficiency problems. The good doctor had developed an innovative and slightly insane approach to the efficient despatch of problem lions. He would wait out at night with his back to a large baobab tree, and simulate the cries of a wounded native. He could use no light, so it was imperative in the dark to lure the king of beasts to within about ten yards, where his .450 Farquharson single shot (yes, you read that correctly) rifle could do its work. There was no room for error, but there was occasionally room for more than one lion, so the missionary indeed also demonstrated the concept of divine protection. Should the critter in question be other than a lion - say a hyena - Fraser would slowly stand up and give it a good whack over the head with the Farquharson. Modern PH’s for some reason have strayed away from these methods.
One very large black-maned lion and a smaller one with a bad leg were the culprits in all of the documented attacks, with some other lions sometimes joining in from time to time.
Fraser, no doubt in the market for a bit of excitement got stuck in at once. By day a devoted missionary and by night the scourge of the rogue lions - sort of a Dr Syn of Rukomechi Marsh if you will - he rode his motorbike to the camp and positioned himself as per usual to await events. During the first three nights, Fraser shot three lions - all curious and desirous of a human take-away, but none the principal antagonists. If you think that tending sick patients all day and hunting villainous lions all night might get a little tiring after three days, you would be right. On the fourth night, Fraser slept soundly - except that his back was to the baobab tree not on his mattress at the mission! A lion, not conversant with human anatomy, had mistaken Fraser’s feet for his head and was dragging him into the bush. Fraser brought his .450 to bear and missed, but the lion departed for healthier climes. The good doctor then took a couple of days off.
But even with Fraser in situ, lions had been eating labourers. When the bridge engineer was gobbled up by the black-maned lion, the Batonga saw it as the spirits’ revenge for the missionary’s kills. Such was their fear that it soon became infectious among even the more sophisticated black labourers. Native bomas were ringed with thorn walls, fires were kept burning all night, and every available tree was occupied by workers trying to sleep in safety, but still the lions came. Sleeping trenches were dug, roofed with steel bridge girders and a steel chain lattice-work. Police guards were posted on all the trenches, and while one lion was indeed shot a number of labourers were wounded by the ricochets.
Enter a nomadic Scot known only as “Jock”, an itinerant prospector/tracker/hunter with a .44-40 Colt Lightning rifle. Engaged to hunt for the pot, he was offered not insignificant bounties for lions. The ballistics of Jock’s .44-40 were akin to a light load in any of today’s .41 or .44 magnum handguns - a 200gr lead cast bullet at just over 1,000 feet per second. Not exactly an A Lion Load.
While we were engaged with the depredations of hyenas around the camp, my trap gun being to no avail, a suggestion was made by ‘Tuli’ Rudolph. His idea was to place a chunk of meat in a five gallon paraffin tin. Cuts made from corner to corner across the top would trap the tin on the animal’s head. Most fuels were carried in these tins, and came in a wooden crate, which carried two tins. In the old days very functional desks and tables were made from these crates for camping, there were no plastic buckets then.
Petros, one of the guides, had taken us out several times and he did not approve of our hyena experiment. However, the trap was set with the paraffin tin, and the hyena duly trapped. The hyena then commenced running around camp and then into the settlement with everyone belting him with branches and rhino shamboks (whip) which was great fun! Finally the tin came off and we all went to bed.
The next evening we were informed that Petros was ill, and required some “muti” (medicine). On going to his hut he came out without a shirt on and had many strokes across his back, and accused us of having given him a hiding! We administered some salve and went back to the fireside to contemplate this turn of events. Jim the camp cook, said Petros was lying. He said the District Commissioner had administered the strokes, as Petros had taken us out of the hunting area. However, Sinoia, our tracker, had a different view. He said Petros was a witch and transformed himself into a hyena during every full moon and it was he we had all beaten the previous night!
There is an underling truth in this story.
African Folklore, Myths and Legends
Enlarged and Expanded 1949
By Owen Connor
Before Kariba dam was built, there used to be semi-permanent settlements along the Zambezi all the way from Chirundu to Nyamumba. The river would flood its banks annually. During the winter months, once the river had receded, the natives lived along its banks growing maize and millet on the nutrient enriched flood plain.
However, during the wet season (summer), the natives moved inland. One of these areas was near the ‘centre’ road which crossed the Taswe river near the old “B” camp. Here they had permanent huts. In good seasons ground water was available throughout the year, drawn from the dry Taswe river bed, which even today is nothing more than a sandy stormwater drain. In time of drought though, the young girls collected water from the Zambezi, 20 kilometres away, carrying the water in calabashes and clay pots balanced on their heads.
On their return from one of these water collecting trips, the young girls were alarmed to find the village in chaos. On entering Mbuya’s hut (grandmother), they were met by a hyena with a string of beads around its legs (married women wear these beads as a token of their union). One of the village elders told them that Mbuya had been eaten by “Gumba Chuma” and that Mbuya had now taken the form of a hyena, and must be sanctified and worshipped as he was now the spirit of Mbuya.
I was told that under no circumstances was I to shoot a hyena as this would be considered killing a human and bring forth very bad luck!
A Depiction of a Hyena personified by Heater Bruton
A common computer game exemplifies the undergod as simply a man with the ability to turn hyena...
Even the Chupacabra is based on a half-human half-beast theory, filling the darkness by night and human by day which is the explanation given by the superstitious for not being able to find the beast.
A Depiction of a Hyena personified by Heater Bruton
Not overly fond of baiting his traps with himself, he would follow up the spoor after a nocturnal attack and shoot the resting lion by day. Within two weeks he had shot nine lion - but as many men had also been taken. The black-maned mudzimu struck again and Jock tracked it over twenty miles the following day, coming across the remains of an old Batonga woman who had provided it with a mid-day snack. He pursued it again the following day as its trail turned menacingly back towards Chrundu - but unaware that his doom was at hand, the old lion sedately killed and ate two Batonga tribesmen only a few miles from the camp at Chirundu. While taking a nap after lunch, the black-maned lion also took a round from Jock’s .44-40 which ended his marauding days. With his reward in hand, exunt Jock.
But God, in the form of Dr Fraser, had a score to settle with Nyaminyami. The missionary returned to Chirundu the day before Jock dealt with Ol’ Black Mane. Following a fruitless night at his boabab, Fraser was returning to his mission when he spied a lion and lioness stalking one of the white labourers who had taken refuge in a tree after Fraser shouted a warning. Fraser dropped the lioness with a clean shot from his .450 but the lion charged. Less than ten feet from the missionary, he collapsed to the ground, weighed down by an extra 480 grains of lead. The missionary’s reload had been quick and the lion’s charge had been less than it should have - because of his limp. The two main actors had now left the stage. Permanently.
Were they mudzimu after all? With only a few exceptions - though there were still many lion about - the reign of terror ended with the demise of the lame cat. Before the road was completed, another seventeen workers would be eaten and another eleven lion shot, but this was mainly due to the laxity that swept over the camp after the two main players were dispatched that week in 1938 - the labourers eschewed their security precautions. That these numbers could be taken as almost “normal” gives a good indication of the scope of the lion problem in general. God 1: Nyaminyami 0.
In 1960, following the completion of the Kariba dam all of the Batonga were relocated out of the Zambezi valley below the gorge into the Urungwe and Chewore safari areas and the Mana Pools National Park. I have in my youth hitch-hiked from Harare to Lusaka more than once along that road and walked across that bridge.
There was a solitary male lion in what is now northern Zambia named Chiengi Chali early in the last century, and on his own he accounted for at least ninety Africans in 1909 (the Tsavo lions claimed one hundred and thirty victims, you say?). Chiengi Chali’s reign of terror had commenced after the death of an old chief who had prophesied that he would return as a lion and deal with his enemies. The district officer’s boma at Chiengi was fortified, fires were lit, the whole nine yards...but still the lion came, saw and conquered. A large lion with a conspicuously pale coat, he came through roofs and broke down doors - and when a trap gun finally ended his spree he was found to be a young, healthy male. So much for the man-eaters-are-old-and-infirm school of thought.
Another variant on the mudzimu theme is that man-eating lions are reincarnations of powerful chiefs or witchdoctors. The legendary East African game warden Bill Harvey’s story of the commanding chief and wizard - or mchawi - Lijonjo has been recounted elsewhere in the African Hunter. One of his nephews, Makochera, had taken half his tribe north out of Mozambique to greener pastures in Tanganyika. After visiting them on occasion, Lijonjo had become convinced that the grass was indeed greener in the north, and proposed to move the whole tribe to Tanganyika. The catch was, Makochera insisted on becoming the paramount ruler. Negotiations broke down, and Lijonjo called upon the spirit of his father to enter the body of a lion and deal with Makochera and his family. The first two victims were taken by a lion barely a week later. Harvey took up the hunt, and on his first foray out, Makochera’s nephew Rajab who was accompanying him was eaten during a night march. The follow up the next day was unsuccessful, and the day after Harvey had left a man was killed at the door of Makochera’s hut. The tribal elders, meanwhile - who had never been amenable to Harvey’s intervention - decided to capture Lijonjo and compel him by force to lift the curse, which the old scoundrel eventually did - and literally the next day the lion all but allowed himself to be shot by Harvey’s game scouts and the rampage was ended.
Here, too, original images of the Njombe lions
The Chirundu Bridge joining Zimbabwe and Zambia
The only images of the real Tsavo lions.
The British South Africa Company built a boma at Mporokoso, also in what is today Zambia in 1898. W R Johnstone, a company official in the closing years of the 19th century became the first white victim of the man-eaters there, when he was knocked from a tree and mauled. Though not carried away and eaten, those were the days before antibiotics and Johnstone died a lingering a painful death from septicaemia. E W Vellacott followed Johnstone to the grave in similar circumstances in 1918. One of the few survivors of the Mporokoso lions was the noted Rhodesian poet Cullen Gouldsbury, who was less severely mauled. These man-eaters accounted for about ten Africans a year, but the African philosophy is very fatalistic about encounters with lions and crocodiles and the locals rarely took the precautions they should have.
Harry Wolhuter was one of the first game rangers in South Africa’s Kruger National Park, and in 1903 he stepped into the pages of history. He was attacked by two lions just after nightfall as he rode along the park’s Lindana Road on horseback. Wolhuter, seized by the right shoulder, was dragged sixty yards into the bush before he was able to surreptitiously draw his sheath knife with his left hand and stab the lion twice, after first having made his best educated guess as to where the beast’s heart was. A third strike severed the lion’s jugular vein. Mortally wounded, the big cat died not far from a tree that Wolhuter had somehow managed to climb, while his dog kept the other lion distracted. Harry Wolhuter was rescued by his native assistants, and began the long road to recovery. A modern day visitor to the Kruger National Park can see Wolhuter’s knife and the skin of the lion he killed on display in the Stevenson-Hamilton library at Skukuza. Major H C Stigand can perhaps be credited with going one better than Wolhuter at Simba station along the Mombassa-Nairobi railway line when he was badly mauled by a wounded lioness that he had tracked into dense cover. With no other alternative, he summoned what remaining strength he had and strangled the lioness. Another technique not favoured by today’s hunters. Wimps!
In 1920, close to the mission station of the White Fathers at Kapatu, a lone man-eating lion appeared. During a two-year rampage it was said to have killed eighty men - possibly the precursor was when one of the White Fathers wounded it and was unsuccessful in following up the blood spoor. It was easily identified by its tracks and was somewhat lame, probably from the bullet. It was finally shot in broad daylight in 1922.
George “Yank” Allen was a relocated Texan, a prospector and hunter who traversed vast areas of central and southern Africa in the early years of the 20th century. He came from an era when it was possible to earn a living from killing rogue lions, and was arguably the last of the professional lion hunters. In between jobs, he had a penchant for strong drink, and had lived a life a scriptwriter could only dream of. For those with the time to listen, he was a wealth of stories. He had been a cowboy in Texas and had come to Africa via the cattle ranches of the Argentinian pampas. It was a given he was a crack shot. He trekked from Cape Town to the Congo at the end of the Boer War, and shot his first man-eating lion in Northern Rhodesia. Ivory was where the money was in those days, so he focussed on elephant, but by 1912 he was working for Liebig’s cattle operation just north of the Limpopo as a professional lion hunter at ten pounds sterling a pelt. He was a solo hunter who said of the locals: “Cowards. They tremble all over at the sight of a lion, and when they see a live one they’re up the nearest tree” - hardly complimentary, but no one can question his success as a lone operator. While marginal by today’s standards, Yank’s rifle of choice was a .303: “Stand your ground, keep your thumb on the bolt so that you know the gun will go off, keep your finger on the trigger and watch carefully.” Somehow, it worked. Along with countless crocodiles he shot for the British South Africa Company he was credited with over three hundred lions before he finally made his ultimate safari in Rhodesia in 1924.
The Zambezi Valley looking towards Zambia, even today it is inhospitable country. The Chirundu road can be seen between the trees.
The Lion - "A mane the Colour of Africa"
The King.
The Zambezi Valley looking towards Zambia, even today it is inhospitable country. The Chirundu road can be seen between the trees.
Mishoro Monty was a rogue lion that killed over a hundred men in Zambia’s Kasama district between 1926 and 1929. He was eventually poisoned. Kasama was also home to Namweliyu, the appropriately-named “cunning one” who stalked the area in 1943, killing forty three locals. He had a peculiar habit of never returning to a kill, so he was very difficult to lay a trap for. One fateful day, though, he broke his rule and returned to a partially-eaten African - whereupon he fell to the rifle of the district officer James Lemon. But for sheer number of victims and complexity of circumstances, nothing can beat the rogue lions of Tanganyika’s Njombe district.