So, it was with some trepidation nearly two decades later, that I thought to go take another look. This at the suggestion of a friend, who assured me the new road from the little town of Selous, built and maintained by the platinum mine in the area, was of good quality. Ignoring the cellos, and armed with a GPS (which were not commonplace in the 90s), I hopped in my truck. To say the road is good, is an understatement. It is exceptional, and possibly the best bit of tar (and dirt) in the whole of Zimbabwe! Yay for Zimplats Mine!
The mine’s influence on the recreational park is also evident, as the facility is undoubtedly used by mine staff (as it is literally a few kilometres from the mine), and I suspect this revenue and possibly assistance in road maintenance etc, makes the facilities at Ngezi good for a Zimbabwe National Park. Granted, the buildings and other structures are showing their age, and maintained as best as can be expected, but the cleanliness and attention to detail is noteworthy. Following my exploratory trip, I booked a lodge and went to have a closer look.
Ngezi Recreational Park is 6 326 hectares in extent of which 573 hectares (26 million cubic metres when full) are occupied by the dam. The dam itself is formed by a 260m long, 22m high concrete wall, and was constructed in 1945 to supply cooling water to the coal fired thermal power station at Munyati. The design allowed water to be released downstream to a catchment weir on the Munyati river, from where it was pumped. The dam and park also became a popular centre for crocodile research due to the high number of the reptiles. Rock strewn, crystal clear water has an enjoyable variation of structure to keep fishermen entertained including weed beds, reeds, odd little islands and of course rocks.
The recreational area, located on the eastern slopes of the Great Dyke, is picturesque amongst a wooded backdrop, which is home to several re-introduced species of antelope and smaller game. Typical highveld climatic conditions means it is generally hot and dry in summer and cold to very cold in winter, so I did not have huge expectations for the fishing in mid winter. Opting not to take a boat, we tried a bit of fishing from the bank, and although we could see the bream, had little success. That said, my enquiries revealed that the dam does indeed hold fair size bass and tiger, though usually difficult to catch.
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Ngezi Dam
By Ant Williams
Many years ago, one lazy Sunday morning, I decided to shake the shackles of lethargy and take a drive. At that time, I had been fishing the Ngezi river quite a bit from a farm in the Beatrice area, a river which flowed into the relatively new Mamina Dam, and then off to the Ngezi dam. Bass, tigerfish and hippo were apparently plentiful at Ngezi, and the National Parks run lodges and camp sites were reputed to be of a good standard. The same however, could not be said of either the road to the dam, or directions and any kind of signage. Setting off with less than a full tank of fuel in my little 4x4 Isuzu, on what should have been a three or four hour round trip, I got hopelessly lost, stuck several times and low on fuel. Arriving at the dam as the sun was dipping into the western horizon, I barely saw anything of the place before setting off on the arduous journey back. Every time I think about Ngezi, I hear shark-like cello accompaniment and break out in a sweat!
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The main mine boom, a few metres after the turn off to the dam.
The launching close to the dam has a hard surface, and should be navigable by two wheel drive vehicles, though caution may be necessary in the wet season.
The Recreational Park entrance, from where the lodges and dam wall camp sites are only a stone’s throw away.
Hot and cold running water, basically equipped kitchen and all linen provided. One needs only take food, drink and personal items like towels and toiletries.
The recreation park has an assortment of accommodation, including four fully equipped lodges each sleeping four people, complete with electric stove, freezer, hot and cold running water, with outside braai or pit fire areas (wood can be bought from Parks), garden furniture and access to the water’s edge. The two lodges I looked at had simple earthen jetties jutting into the dam, making bank fishing easier. Two smaller cottages with outside kitchens and a communal ablution block each sleep two people, while a caravan site and a further 25 camp sites are dotted around the dam. Aside from the camp sites located close to the dam wall which have a communal ablution block, central water points and a thatched open air room (with wire mesh windows to keep the monkeys out), those located around the dam are pretty much dilapidated. However, if you are prepared to rough it, they have beautiful views of the dam and offer privacy to enhance a true bush experience. A launch site close to the dam wall will accommodate most boats launched with a two wheel drive vehicle.
As a National Parks facility, Ngezi cannot be considered “luxurious”, but facilities were clean, comfortable and run by helpful staff, and at $40-$55 per lodge per night (excluding minimal entry fees), it is very affordable. I will certainly return, and with boat in tow will take more time to explore the fishing. Bookings can only be made through the main National Parks booking office in Harare, cnr Borrowdale Road and Sandringham Drive telephone (+263-4) 706077-8 and e-mail pchigowo@zimparks.co.zw
One of the other four bedded lodges overlooking the dam.
The dam has many rocks, some of them market with up-right PVC pipes to caution boaters when the water is high.
The fish on the left was caught by Keiran Lindsay at Ngezi recently, and while he was fighting this sizeable bass back to the boat, it was bitten in half by a very large tiger.
Gerry Jooste, professional bass fisherman and boat builder has experience of Ngezi and comments “The fishing was quite good at Ngezi about two years ago, but it has become tougher in recent times. The tiger definitely keep the bass population down and only the fittest survive. The water is clear most of the time, as the oxygen weed is well established. During the rainy season the water can get quite murky, especially up the main river. Frogs and soft plastic baits work well in the summer and smaller soft plastic baits like a fluke and Senko work well in the colder months. Don't throw crank baits or spinner baits, or any hard baits for that matter, unless you have a free supply of them!”
Directions to Ngezi Recreational Park
Ngezi Recreational Park is accessible from the Harare-Masvingo Highway, turning off at the Featherstone Police station, and apparently now sign posted from there. Our route took us out on the Harare-Bulawayo Highway turning left midway between Kadoma and Kwekwe at the roundabout in Selous (GPS e030̊ 125.665" s18̊ 04.811"). Approximately 70 kilometers along this well maintained road, the main Zimplats Mine boom will be reached, with the turning to the dam going right just before the boom. Although there is no Ngezi Park sign here, directions are fairly simple.
As you turn off the tar, take an immediate left onto the wide dirt road (GPS e 030̊20.613" s18̊ 37.317").Proceed about 4km down this road until you reach a fork in the road - turning left - and almost immediately you will pass a sign for the “Trauma Center” on your right. Continue a further 500m until you reach a roundabout (GPS e030̊ 20.232" s18̊ 39.604") - showing a concrete sign post for the Recreational Park, 13km - straight ahead (second left on the roundabout). Proceed 6km till you reach a T junction (GPS e030̊ 19.649" s18̊ 42.647"). A fenced mine office will be on your left at the T junction. Turn left and proceed a further 6km along the Ngezi river which offers picturesque views, turning right, then over the low level bridge and on to the Parks office. The Recreational Park office is at GPS e030̊ 22.484" s18̊ 42.714". A word of caution - during the week, considerable heavy traffic including 42m long “road trains” ply these roads, but less so on the weekends. As such, expect to encounter some traffic control on the dirt roads.
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