A Little Nostalgia (Part II)
In 1950, when I was ten, and saw the Zambezi River at Victoria Falls for the first time as an impressionable kid, I knew the river would become a part of my life, drawn inexorably by its aura of history, mystery, fun, and danger. The swirling cloud of spray, that tumultuous torrent of falling water, explorer David Livingstone’s statue, a four-engined Short Solent Flying Boat swinging gently at its mooring in the current, staying in a great hotel for the first time, walking across the magnificent bridge, entranced me. This would be the first of many adventures with The River, and five years later and while I was at senior school in Cape Town, I returned to spend two weeks with my Dad and some friends camping on the banks of the Zambezi once more.
Access to this campsite was through the Tate and Lyle sugar estates downstream from Chirundu. The campsite overlooked the river from under some magnificent mahogany and sausage trees, and consisted only of a large oval thatched-pole hut where our food and other paraphernalia was stored, and a long-drop loo some twenty-five paces away... downwind. We slept on stretchers with mosquito nets in the open under the trees.
From 1954 onwards the camping trip became an annual two-week event, with a party of four to six Wedza farmers, organised by my father. With the construction of the farm dam, my Dad had bought a sixteen-feet long aluminium rowing boat from Advanx, which was later adapted by Advanx by widening and strengthening its transom to accommodate outboard motors.
Life being what it is, The Zambezi took a backseat for a number of years afterwards, what with National Service, working hard as a farm manager, my leased farm, marriage, earning a private pilot licence... the war.
With peace came a renewed love-affair with the Zambezi River, starting with an idea to operate a base from which boating safaris would take place, on a seasonal basis to fit in with the peak farming season, on the river bank, which my wife Shayne thankfully liked the idea of. After an aerial survey, our selected site was where, not long afterwards, Chikwenya Safari Lodge came into being, but not because of us!
Upper Zambezi Discovery
The Adventure of Ngezi Dam
The first trip was undertaken with two Seagull 4-horsepower motors, and then came a gleaming 40-horsepower green-and-silver Mercury, which opened up many options for traveling much further up and down the river, between Kariba Gorge and Mana Pools, and during the life of the Federation, exploration of northern rivers like the Kafue took place too. Fishing for tiger, vundu and bream was a major part of these trips, and some good fish of these species were taken regularly, while most suppers comprised fresh bream fillets cooked over wood-fire embers.
My first visit to Mana Pools was, needless to say by boat, before the area was declared a Game Reserve in 1958, and while some Dandawa tribes-people were still living in small villages in the area. One observation made during these Mana Pools trips during the middle 1950’s was that there were no obvious signs of widespread flooding of the area, as Dad and his friends had been led to believe the areas around all four pools were flooded annually.
KAWFT
RIFA
Issue #7 March 2015
Local inhabitants on both banks of the river grew tobacco for smoking and snuff production, plus a little maize and millet, and they fished using home-made rods, and nets, either from the banks or from their dugout canoes, with most of their catches being dried over slow smokey fires for sale or barter. Nets though, were often badly damaged and even destroyed by crocs and hippos. Probably because these camping and fishing trips always took place during July, we never saw another boat on the river, and seldom indeed did we see a crocodile either. Not long before the mid-1950’s, crocodile hunting for the reptile’s skins decimated the population in the middle Zambezi, so the relatively few survivors were extremely wary of humans in boats, a far cry from the situation which prevails today.
Once work started on the Kariba dam wall, we would boat under the Chirundu suspension bridge, opened more than twenty years before, in 1934, and on up to the mouth of Kariba Gorge, where we would set up camp on the south bank under big shady trees. Early the next morning, carrying our picnic lunch on board, we would boat to within two-hundred-odd meters of the building site, secure the boat, and walk up to where the suspension bridges were anchored to the south bank hillside, one very narrow for pedestrians only, the other for road traffic.
From these bridges one got a bird’s eye view of the early building process going on, with concrete poured from huge buckets, moving back and forth on pulleys running the length of steel blondin cables stretched across the gorge, into the shuttering of the coffer dam walls, and the main wall itself. The once-in-a-thousand-year floods of 1957 and 1958, which almost destroyed what had been constructed up till then, washed away both these temporary bridges.
On another visit thereafter, by sheer chance, we witnessed the blowing of the north-bank coffer dam (pictured), which happily didn’t significantly alter the water level, and our boat survived unscathed.
The floods also unfortunately caused a landslide of part of the hillside at the mouth of the gorge, burying several people, and the eerie sight of one end of a bedstead sticking out of the tumbled earth and rocks stayed with me for a long time. There were two boats moored close-by on that occasion, apparently abandoned, one an open boat with an inboard motor, which may have been the one we saw in the gorge years earlier, the other a much bigger ferry-type hull, obviously for carrying larger loads. (See photo).
For a while Air Rhodesia ran what they called “sundowner flights”, which were specifically to view the rapidly growing Lake Kariba, serving sundowners and snacks on board while the Vickers Viscount circled the dam wall and its expanding water mass as the sun went down, before returning to Salisbury (Harare). These flights gave those of us lucky enough to go on one, who had also observed much of the building process from ground level, the pleasure of reveling in the grandeur of a spectacular achievement.
About the Author
David Scott was born a Wedza farm boy, with a father who understood and loved wild places - feelings which he luckily passed on to David, and by the time David was seven or eight years old, his father had taught him to fish and shoot. Schooled at Ruzawi and Bishops, he went into farming and was twice runner-up tobacco grower of the year in the 1970’s.
Among other things, he was involved in the design and building of Tiger Bay Resort at Kariba and Magaruque Island off the Mozambique coast. Now the Administrator of a Harare Care Home, David has published several books - Twenty When? - which reconciles evolution with the story in Genesis, and Rhinos’ Revenge which tells of the rhino’s plight in Africa and their retribution.
The Victoria Falls has always been considered an impassable barrier to fish moving upstream or downstream in the Zambezi River, thus dividing the river fish into two distinct populations and ecosystems known as the Upper (UZ) and Middle (MZ) Zambezi respectively. Some scientists considered that fish might survive the drop but others vehemently denied this possibility as did Rex Jubb, Zimbabwe’s first Ichthyologist, in the 1950’s.
When Lake Kariba was built it was found that the snail–eating UZ green happy was present but scarce in the MZ and proliferating in the dam. By the 70s, the rainbow and pink happy’s were also present. The UZ purpleface largemouth also began to be seen and reports that nembwe (robbies) had been found on Zambian shores reached us, but have never been substantiated in Zimbabwe as yet. It is a possibility that these may have been accidentally introduced when stocking the lake from Chilanga in the 60s.
In 1970 we researchers at Kariba noticed that sardines, introduced from Lake Tanganyika, were surviving passage through the dam wall, either through the gates or turbines. A few years later Dr Jubb and Dale Kenmuir both published observations of fish passing alive through turbines and water pumps.
1989 saw Paul Skelton, Dale Kenmuir and I surprisingly finding weed-loving UZ fishes, the dwarf citharine, copper-striped barb, spot-tail barb, upjaw barb and meshscaled topminnow, all caught by hand-net in the vicinity of Olive Beadle and Msuna camps at the western extremes of the lake. In 1990 I visited the Batoka Gorge below the Falls per kind favour of Operation Raleigh from England and managed to sample the gorge fishes on two separate expeditions. I half-suspected to, and thus was excited to find six UZ species new to the MZ at that time. They were the western bottlenose, hyphen barb, mountain catfish, banded jewel fish, UZ bulldog and ocellated spiny eel. The latter was subsequently found near Chirundu in 2000 and was perhaps overlooked during the ’56 pre-impoundment surveys.
In ’94 Tommy Chatham reported having caught an African pike at the Matetsi/Zambezi junction and this was later followed by others caught in the Deka/Zambezi area and reported in the Zimbabwe Fisherman (as this magazine was known) in ’95 - See side bar for the archive from that issue. In the next decade I identified a UZ Zambezi grunter angled from Olive Beadle camp by a young girl, brought to me by her mother, followed a few months later, by a many-spined climbing perch caught by Brian Macgregor at Msuna camp.
Thus 19 UZ species are known to be in Lake Kariba ,10 of which are known weed-loving species. You can imagine my joy, when Tom Oxden-Willows phoned me on the 21st of June to say he had caught a leopard squeaker in the small flooded bay extending into the trailer parking area behind the front chalets of Olive Beadle camp. When I first examined it the next day I thought it was a different species but after thawing and cleaning I confirmed Tom’s identification. This UZ fish is a beautiful aquarium fish and is now the 20th found below Victoria Falls.
I believe that these fishes are leaking through the Falls by means of the water intake and turbines of the Livingstone power station and that a percentage do survive the drop over the Falls itself, provided they are small fingerlings with a low mass/high surface area ratio. If you look up aerial fish stocking from fixed-wing aircraft in the 50s and waterspouts carrying fishes, on the Internet, you may agree with me.
The survival of UZ fish in Kariba depends on the environmental changes taking place within the riverine stretches and shores of the lake, first mooted many years ago. The weed-beds, to provide food and cover and the many drowned trees in the shallows are very important and I am sure that more UZ fishes are still to be found in suitable areas. Anglers can be very important contributors in this respect and I am appealing to all of you to take an interest in the fishes of your angling areas and report any strange catches to your nearest friendly ichthyologist, plus a frozen or pickled specimen, or photo, if possible.
Many years ago, one lazy Sunday morning, I decided to shake the shackles of lethargy and take a drive. At that time, I had been fishing the Ngezi river quite a bit from a farm in the Beatrice area, a river which flowed into the relatively new Mamina Dam, and then off to the Ngezi dam. Bass, tigerfish and hippo were apparently plentiful at Ngezi, and the National Parks run lodges and camp sites were reputed to be of a good standard. The same however, could not be said of either the road to the dam, or directions and any kind of signage. Setting off with less than a full tank of fuel in my little 4x4 Isuzu, on what should have been a three or four hour round trip, I got hopelessly lost, stuck several times and low on fuel. Arriving at the dam as the sun was dipping into the western horizon, I barely saw anything of the place before setting off on the arduous journey back. Every time I think about Ngezi, I hear shark-like cello accompaniment and break out in a sweat!
The two boats moored close to the blown coffer dam
By Ant Williams
So, it was with some trepidation nearly two decades later, that I thought to go take another look. This at the suggestion of a friend, who assured me the new road from the little town of Selous, built and maintained by the platinum mine in the area, was of good quality. Ignoring the cellos, and armed with a GPS (which were not commonplace in the 90s), I hopped in my truck. To say the road is good, is an understatement. It is exceptional, and possibly the best bit of tar (and dirt) in the whole of Zimbabwe! Yay for Zimplats Mine!
The mine’s influence on the recreational park is also evident, as the facility is undoubtedly used by mine staff (as it is literally a few kilometres from the mine), and I suspect this revenue and possibly assistance in road maintenance etc, makes the facilities at Ngezi good for a Zimbabwe National Park. Granted, the buildings and other structures are showing their age, and maintained as best as can be expected, but the cleanliness and attention to detail is noteworthy. Following my exploratory trip, I booked a lodge and went to have a closer look.
Ngezi Recreational Park is 6 326 hectares in extent of which 573 hectares (26 million cubic metres when full) are occupied by the dam. The dam itself is formed by a 260m long, 22m high concrete wall, and was constructed in 1945 to supply cooling water to the coal fired thermal power station at Munyati. The design allowed water to be released downstream to a catchment weir on the Munyati river, from where it was pumped. The dam and park also became a popular centre for crocodile research due to the high number of the reptiles. Rock strewn, crystal clear water has an enjoyable variation of structure to keep fishermen entertained including weed beds, reeds, odd little islands and of course rocks.
The recreational area, located on the eastern slopes of the Great Dyke, is picturesque amongst a wooded backdrop, which is home to several re-introduced species of antelope and smaller game. Typical highveld climatic conditions means it is generally hot and dry in summer and cold to very cold in winter, so I did not have huge expectations for the fishing in mid winter. Opting not to take a boat, we tried a bit of fishing from the bank, and although we could see the bream, had little success. That said, my enquiries revealed that the dam does indeed hold fair size bass and tiger, though usually difficult to catch.
 The main mine boom, a few metres after the turn off to the dam. |  The launching close to the dam has a hard surface, and should be navigable by two wheel drive vehicles, though caution may be necessary in the wet season. |  The Recreational Park entrance, from where the lodges and dam wall camp sites are only a stone’s throw away. |
|---|---|---|
 Hot and cold running water, basically equipped kitchen and all linen provided. |  One needs only take food, drink and personal items like towels and toiletries. |
The recreation park has an assortment of accommodation, including four fully equipped lodges each sleeping four people, complete with electric stove, freezer, hot and cold running water, with outside braai or pit fire areas (wood can be bought from Parks), garden furniture and access to the water’s edge. The two lodges I looked at had simple earthen jetties jutting into the dam, making bank fishing easier. Two smaller cottages with outside kitchens and a communal ablution block each sleep two people, while a caravan site and a further 25 camp sites are dotted around the dam. Aside from the camp sites located close to the dam wall which have a communal ablution block, central water points and a thatched open air room (with wire mesh windows to keep the monkeys out), those located around the dam are pretty much dilapidated. However, if you are prepared to rough it, they have beautiful views of the dam and offer privacy to enhance a true bush experience. A launch site close to the dam wall will accommodate most boats launched with a two wheel drive vehicle.
As a National Parks facility, Ngezi cannot be considered “luxurious”, but facilities were clean, comfortable and run by helpful staff, and at $40-$55 per lodge per night (excluding minimal entry fees), it is very affordable. I will certainly return, and with boat in tow will take more time to explore the fishing. Bookings can only be made through the main National Parks booking office in Harare, cnr Borrowdale Road and Sandringham Drive telephone (+263-4) 706077-8 and e-mail pchigowo@zimparks.co.zw.
By David Scott
A company called Zambezi River Safaris P/L was formed, and an approach made to National Parks for a concession, including part of the Sapi river, Chikwenya Island, and Zambezi River shoreline. Our hopes and dreams were sadly dashed by the National Parks’ hierarchy of the early 1980’s, though shortly afterwards canoeing safaris and white-water rafting were given the go-ahead to operate on the river.
By then, however, our die was cast, and together with Frik and Sue Maas, whom we had first met on Fothergill Island where they were part of the management team alongside owners Rob and Sandy Fynn, we surveyed an idyllic site on the western shoreline of the Ume River, which would usher in a new lodge on Kariba - to be known as Tiger Bay - a story to be continued.
The two temporary bridges across the Zambezi.
Views of the rapidly filling lake during the sundowner flights taken in a Vickers Viscount.
The blowing of the coffer dam which we were fortunate to be present for.
The blowing of the coffer dam which we were fortunate to be present for.
Views of the rapidly filling lake during the sundowner flights taken in a Vickers Viscount.
The blowing of the coffer dam which we were fortunate to be present for.
By John Minshull, Environmental Ecologist - Acol Chemical, Bulawayo
African Pike Discovered in Middle Zambezi!
The questionable existence of African pike in the middle Zambezi river has recently been dispelled by the discovery of this species in the Deka region.
Tommy Chatham of Hwange wrote to the Zimbabwe Fisherman confirming the fact. Several bank fishermen in the area were reported to be catching unusual fish on hand lines. The first incident was reported when a fisherman brought in an African pike to Mr Gerry Strickland between Christmas and New Year. We are unable to give any statistics on this fish at present, but Mr Strickland intends submitting his specimen to the Bulawayo Museum for further study. More light was shed on the subject, when a second fish was brought to Mr Ian Russel, by another bank fisherman, Mr Robson Dube on 23 January 1995. According to Mr Dube this fish was caught approximately 2km upstream from Sibankwazi Police Station. Robson was fishing with tiny fillets on a hand line with 35kg line. He hooked the fish between 12 and 15 feet from the bank at about six o’clock in the morning. Once hooked, as Mr Dube explained, the pike “started jumping lots”. When the fish was brought to Ian however, it had already been gutted. Although Robson was unable to give details of the stomach contents, he explained that the eggs (the fish was obviously ready to spawn) and air bags were very similar to that of a tigerfish. Mr Dube’s fish had a gutted weight of 380g and a length of 29.5cm.
The African pike is primarily found in the Okavango delta, Kafue river systems and parts of west Africa and Zaire and until recently was known to occur only above the Victoria Falls in the Zambezi. In the confines of the relatively small Zambezi, the pike, because of its small size, has been forced out of the main stream, into the quiet backwaters by the more predominant tigerfish. These fish are structure orientated and wait in ambush to attack small bream and barbs. Pike travel upstream between January and March to spawn, favouring smaller tributaries and flood plains.
There is a notable absence of this species in the Zambian river system. The pike’s discovery beyond its known parameters is obviously interesting and cause for speculation and debate! Tommy Chataham has quizzed some veteran anglers who have fished the river for twenty years or more, and it seems that these are the first pike to be caught below the Falls.
Tommy Chatham and Sheila Black with the gutted pike caught up-stream from the Sibankwazi police station.
Issue #7 March 2015
One of the other four bedded lodges overlooking the dam.
The dam has many rocks, some of them market with up-right PVC pipes to caution boaters when the water is high.
The fish on the left was caught by Keiran Lindsay at Ngezi recently, and while he was fighting this sizeable bass back to the boat, it was bitten in half by a very large tiger.
Gerry Jooste, professional bass fisherman and boat builder has experience of Ngezi and comments “The fishing was quite good at Ngezi about two years ago, but it has become tougher in recent times. The tiger definitely keep the bass population down and only the fittest survive. The water is clear most of the time, as the oxygen weed is well established. During the rainy season the water can get quite murky, especially up the main river. Frogs and soft plastic baits work well in the summer and smaller soft plastic baits like a fluke and Senko work well in the colder months. Don't throw crank baits or spinner baits, or any hard baits for that matter, unless you have a free supply of them!”
Directions to Ngezi Recreational Park
Ngezi Recreational Park is accessible from the Harare-Masvingo Highway, turning off at the Featherstone Police station, and apparently now sign posted from there. Our route took us out on the Harare-Bulawayo Highway turning left midway between Kadoma and Kwekwe at the roundabout in Selous (GPS e030̊ 125.665" s18̊ 04.811"). Approximately 70 kilometers along this well maintained road, the main Zimplats Mine boom will be reached, with the turning to the dam going right just before the boom. Although there is no Ngezi Park sign here, directions are fairly simple.
As you turn off the tar, take an immediate left onto the wide dirt road (GPS e 030̊20.613" s18̊ 37.317").Proceed about 4km down this road until you reach a fork in the road - turning left - and almost immediately you will pass a sign for the “Trauma Center” on your right. Continue a further 500m until you reach a roundabout (GPS e030̊ 20.232" s18̊ 39.604") - showing a concrete sign post for the Recreational Park, 13km - straight ahead (second left on the roundabout). Proceed 6km till you reach a T junction (GPS e030̊ 19.649" s18̊ 42.647"). A fenced mine office will be on your left at the T junction. Turn left and proceed a further 6km along the Ngezi river which offers picturesque views, turning right, then over the low level bridge and on to the Parks office. The Recreational Park office is at GPS e030̊ 22.484" s18̊ 42.714". A word of caution - during the week, considerable heavy traffic including 42m long “road trains” ply these roads, but less so on the weekends. As such, expect to encounter some traffic control on the dirt roads.
Issue #7 March 2015
Issue #7 March 2015
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