Changa: Exlusive by Nature
By Anthony Williams
From that distant time when the Zambezi was halted, and its waters began rising to create one of the worlds biggest man-made lakes, the Sanyati Gorge has been a place imbued with spiritual awe. Cutting through the towering Matuzviadonha mountain range, mystical fish - imagined and real - roam the waters of this once significant tributary of the Zambezi. Some even claim sightings of mermaids, or possibly Zambezi sharks, and maybe even the revered river god NyamiNyami himself took up residence when man besmirched his sacred Kariwa Gorge? Something we will never know, but it is undeniable that the Sanyati Gorge is a fish magnet.
Ironically, Changa Safari Camp was never envisaged as a fishing lodge, but rather built to capture the essence of Africa most sought after by intercontinental travelers. Set amongst the mopane scrub and interconnected with decked and natural walkways, the camp does indeed capture an essence not easily defined. Their description is apt and does absolute justice to that which is Changa - “Changa has been designed to blend in with the environment as much as possible and the natural materials, thatched roofs, wooden decks and walkways merge beautifully with the surrounding bush. The main lounge and library is comfortably furnished in an eclectic style, beautifully integrating leather, linen and cane to create a relaxed, homely vibe. The lounge is completely open to the gentle breeze, shaded by a thatch roof with sprawling views of the main deck, beach and lakeshore.” Pretty isn’t it? And makes you want to go?
If one has seen the quantity and size of fish confiscated from poachers who used to operate in the gorge, an appreciation of this fishing Mecca can be gained. The Sanyati literally teems with fish, and not just in the spawn. There is a reason there used to be a “race to the gorge” trophy awarded during Tiger Tournament in years of old. It is also the only place I have consistently caught species like bottlenose and Cornish jack, while others often find big vundu. While the Sanyati is a success story, Kevin also reports that the bream fishing closer to Changa and among the bays and river inlets of Palm Bay and the like, has improved significantly since they opened. One does not have to run to the gorge... but be warned, you will be sad if you do not make that short trip - the experience is worth it even if not fishing.
While Changa never planned on serious fishing, they have all the equipment and have now dedicated necessary resources to offering this as an activity. They operate a Sabre, Volvo, Pelican and pontoon-type Bazooka for fishing and sundowner cruises. Three game drive safari vehicles (seating up to eight people) - with shaded canopies - operate in Matusadona and of course, they offer the guided walks for those who really want to get close to nature. Sadly, I chose fishing so will be back to explore the Matusadona... if I am ever able to ignore the Sanyati Gorge that is.
Changa Safari Camp has all the amenities catering to a wide spectrum of interests, and two of their eight tented lodges are family units sleeping four. The meals were outstanding and spoke of the standard offered to international visitors, while things like generated power (8-10 hours daily) and a massive inverter system ensure room fans keep the heat at bay, and the tents are even cool (externally) by mist sprays, used on those real stinking hot Kariba days. Access is across the lake by boat, or a flight into Fothergill Island’s bush strip where guests can be collected. For the really extravagant, Changa has an on-sight heli-pad (built to accommodate choppers during the anti-poaching operations, ongoing research work - cheetah, lion and elephant - and film making for documentaries). They work closely with other operators along the lake and will often exchange guests with places like Rhino Camp and Bumi.
Tigers Exploding on the Surface
Zimboundary: Boundaried by Hope
The eloquently appointed lodges... Not exactly your “tent in the bush”, boasting in and outdoor ablutions, private decks, and all the comfort of Old Safari.
Sunset is always a special time at Changa.
Positioned to look out over the lake at the Matusadona mountains, Changa enjoys four kilometers of private shoreline.
The eloquently appointed lodges... Not exactly your “tent in the bush”, boasting in and outdoor ablutions, private decks, and all the comfort of Old Safari.
Upon completion three years ago, the owners came face to face with a startling reality. They were not alone in this Mediterranean-like sea. Nightly, incursions by land and water based poachers infested their concession, decimating the fish and wildlife. Funds were quickly rallied and a small anti-poaching strategy put in place. But it was not enough and they quickly realised the scale of the poaching was much bigger than imagined. That the Sanyati Gorge was a base to poachers - who over the years had become complacent and even belligerent toward “intruders” - and untold damage was being done, was a stark reality. Quickly, their anti-poaching role threatened to overtake their lodge operations, and through a methodical, dedicated approach involving other operators NGOs and National Parks, the Matusadona Anti Poaching Project was born (MAPP). Today, it is one of the most active, and well equipped of its kind on the lake, and vigorous fund raising and private funding (much coming from Changa) has seen a sharp decline in poaching operations - many of which were originating from across the lake in Zambia. Space here does not allow too much depth on the subject, though an in-depth overview was published in Issue No. 3 online and they also have a very informative Facebook page.
KAWFT
RIFA
Issue #5 February 2015
In the space of a year, their fish anti-poaching efforts began to yield results, and better and greater catches of bream, bottlenose and tigerfish became commonplace. Almost daily patrols in the gorge wiped out the poaching scourge, and it is amazing how quickly the fishing has been restored. That the Sanyati is a gem, is undeniable and immediately, avid fishermen began frequenting Changa due to its close proximity. Nowhere else on Kariba, is there a feature quite as unique as the gorge, and it attracts unusual and seldom caught species like bottlenose, huge Cornish jack, even bigger vundu as well as chessa and all of the bream species. Big mozzies love the steep banks and at the right time of year, almost plead to get into ones boat. But the gorge has always been remembered for its unparalleled tiger fishing, and partly because it is a favored spawning ground, and huge fish live and migrate to the river.
Changa is a beautiful camp, and really well blended. The huge and spacious tented lodges, each with their own en-suite bathroom, outdoor shower and open-air bath-tub as well as private view of the lake, bring a true element of luxury to be enjoyed after a hard and sweaty day hauling fish. The rest of the lodge is designed to ensure you relax, sitting around the pool sipping cocktails or enjoying their varied activities. Though rugged, they maintain roads within the Matusadona, and it offers a great day out if not fishing. But I did want to fish, and Changa organised a boat for me, complete with cooler box, packed lunch and enough fuel to go explore the area.
Fortunately, or unfortunately, it rained during the night over the mountain range, dropping something like 80 mils in a few hours. The gorge was chocolate brown and littered with so much floating debris, navigation with the boat was slow and difficult. I have never seen the gorge like that, and as we nosed our way through the floating logs - leaving a thick trail in the muddy surface behind - we hit rapids boiling up from the river bed - and this even before we reached the first cross roads! Sadly, the water was not just stained, but heavy with suspended silt, apparently from the illegal gold panning far upstream on the plateau. But the waterfalls toppling into the gorge were not only a sight worth marveling at, but were gushing clean water into the river to create large pockets of fresh water, where I found the tiger. If I am honest, they were not really interested in eating - I guess due to the bad visibility and silt (which I am sure does their gills no good), but I had some committed strikes on my surface lures while fishing the edge of the stained waters, and we nearly landed a fish well over ten pounds hooked on a baited spinner. In years gone by, I have fished the gorge when flowing with dirty water, and had the most amazing fishing. Kevin Higgins, co-owner of Changa experienced this while fishing in December with his son, and reports the fish were there in good quantity.
Aside from their anti-poaching work, Changa have made space available - as mentioned above - to researchers working on the park. In 2014 Changa began providing a base and much needed support for Rae Kokeš of the African Lion & Environmental Research Trust (ALERT). Rae is undertaking a lion population ecology study on the Matusadona valley floor to investigate the current population viability and identify existing threats to the resident lions. The population saw a dramatic decline in the early 2000’s after the loss of buffalo, their primary prey, however it is suspected there are other population pressures at play.
By Anthony Williams
I have long had a passion for surface fishing. My earliest experiences of explosive surface strikes and the almost intoxicating rush of adrenalin fizzing through my veins, were with bass, and quickly became addictive. Toward the end of the serious bass fishing I was doing, I seldom threw anything else, and found that while I caught less fish, they were generally bigger and would take a surface lure throughout the day... all I had to do was persist. I also learned, that almost every other species of fish would take a surface lure too, and even caught barbel on them. Often it was simply a case of applying the technique correctly and at the right time.
So, imagine my delight when reports of big tigerfish taking surface lures intentionally thrown for them, started emerging, and were true? Someone sent me a link to a story of surface-striking-tigers on the Zambezi along the Barotse in Zambia, and I was amazed at the size of fish being landed on Rapalas. Angler Craig Thomassen, a presenter on South Africa’s lure fishing show, “Inside Angling”, had penned the story and he shared some of his insights with me.
Craig was using Rapala X-Rap Walk lures of 9cm, 11cm and 13cm as well as some Rapala Skitter Pops of 7cm and 9cm. Craig writes “We were drifting within easy casting range of the bank and casting the lures into any small pockets, eddies, or close to structure such as fallen trees and brush piles, which broke the current. The action which we gave the lures was a quick zigzagging, walk the dog, type action, which we started as soon as the lure hit the water. We immediately started getting small swirls and splashes behind the lures, with fish of all sizes being interested and trying to attack the lures. Most of these were small fish, which were hiding in the shelter close to the bank, and we landed a few but had many misses.” The areas Craig was targeting is not unlike those fished by the fly-fishers on all parts of the river.
During Craig’s four day trip, he landed many tigerfish over ten pounds with his best being 15lbs - Oh boy! The fish were most active around the edges and hitting surface lures during the first part of the morning till about 10am, particularly if there was no wind and the water was glassy and calm. As with casting flies at tigers laying in ambush, accuracy with surface lures accounted for more fish. Areas he targeted were wherever the main current was broken by any formation or structure, which caused a back eddy and made an ideal ambush spot for a tiger to sit in, out of the main current. The hits seemed to be reaction strikes, with the fish attacking anything which landed within its zone. His most successful lure was the Rapala X-Rap Walk 9cm, as its smaller size meant that it fitted more easily into the tiger’s mouth.
Craig was not alone, and others had been playing with surface lures along the middle Zambezi. Common to both the upper Zambezi and middle section is the fact that the tigers will hit the lure several times before giving up, often blasting it right out of the water as the fish explodes from beneath. My own growing experience over the last couple of years was proving hook-up to be the most difficult thing, and this needed more thought.
Then, on a sortie to Kariba, I stood watching the sunrise from the top deck of our houseboat. A slight chill in the air, my steaming mug of tea blew little puffs of steam into the air as the sun crested the distant hills. A small splash and swirl below tugged me from my daydream, and focussing on the gut contents of one of our previous day’s bream floating on the surface, I saw the little tiger hit it again. What was interesting, is that the tiger repeatedly hit the floating morsel, screaming in from an oblique angle to the side of the food, and from some distance, rather than from directly beneath. Its attacks were not at all precise, and seemed more to be an attempt to tear the food apart, than capture it whole and swallow it. In the context of our surface fishing for tiger, it was interesting to watch and may explain the poor hook-up ratio when targeting tigerfish with top waters.
Similar to many saltwater species like barracuda, sea pike and some sharks, tigerfish are thought to be “slash predators”, an example of which I had been watching from the houseboat. This seems to especially be the case when the prey is too big to swallow in one hit, or perceived as about to escape - like a rapidle retrieved surface lure. It seems to be their intent to attack with great ferocity, “slashing” their prey, possibly to kill or disable it, then tearing manageable bits off which are eaten. This is unlike bass for example, who approach in a more calculated fashion, stalking the bait before launching an attack. Another clue, is that bass’ eyes are positioned more on top of their heads, giving them some degree of binocular vision (and accuracy), whereas a tiger’s eyes are planted squarely on the side of its head. While bass may follow and hit a bait from some distance, the attack is usually launched more from below than the side - bringing its binocular vision into play.
My observation and various discussions about the differences between surface fishing for bass (my main experience) and this approach for tiger was starting to make sense of the many missed strikes we typically get when the tiger are on the bite. Many a time, the explosive attack from a tiger is so vicious, the lure is thrown out of the water some distance from the impact and no real contact is made with the fish. Also, at least a quarter of all fish hooked are foul hooked in the face.
In part one of this series (Topwater Tiger - Beware Ye Faint-Hearted)) we published a picture taken at the moment a tiger has hit a surface lure. Captured for posterity, one can see the exit and entry splashes of the tigerfish, and the lure landing some distance away. Almost as the lure landed, the fish was there again and hit it another two or three times before giving up.
By far, the most fish we have hooked have come after a very determined and even accurate strike by the tiger. These probably only happen 10% of the time, seem to be bigger fish and from the get-go, it is clear he has the lure in his mouth and he is heading off like a freight train - no bouncing the lure round the park like a soccer ball. Invariably, these fish are hooked quite far back in the mouth and the hooks have penetrated the boney mouth well. I believe this to be a deliberate attempt to simply swallow the pray without first trying to kill it. It is truly heart-stopping! But beware, because these hits are extremely hard to control as the fish often swims toward the boat (creating slack line), or is heading at such pace in the other direction, that he powers against your tension (especially if on a tight drag), using that leverage to jump and throw the lure. All of this in a millisecond.
In the last article, I discussed drag settings and feel it is worth mentioning again. The force exerted on the lure (and its components) with a tight drag, often prove too much for the lure, hooks or swivels - especially during these freight-train hits. A lighter drag setting allows a more steady tension on the fish once he has the lure, allowing the hooks to work their way into that boney mouth, rather than ripping through it, and hinders the tiger’s ability to come screaming from the depths and jump while throwing the lure.
On 6 July 2014 two cyclists set out from the Honde Valley in eastern Zimbabwe in an attempt to ride around the entire borders of Zimbabwe. After 3763km and 44 days Ashley King and Linda Davidson completed the journey riding approximately 100km every day with only three rest days.
The purpose of the ride was to raise money and create awareness for anti poaching efforts in Zimbabwe. Matusadona Anti-Poaching Project (MAPP) The Tikki Hywood Foudation, Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit (VFAPU) and National Parks were the beneficiaries and over $23000 was raised.
The journey took them through many of the countries National Parks including Gonarezhou, Tuli, Hwange, Kazuma Pan, Zambezi NP, Kariba Recreational area and Mana Pools and it was here they experienced the beauty and the horror of our country. Witnessing poaching first hand, abruptly brought the reality of their expedition to attention and further strengthened their resolve to complete the ride. However the incredible scenery of the countryside and the people met along the way reaffirm the cliché – “We live in God’s own country”.
Interested guests are invited to speak with Rae during their time at the camp and enjoy lion viewings alongside her as she tracks those study animals that have been radio-collared as a part of her study. Rae comments “Matusadona is almost like Zimbabwe’s hidden Eden. I’ve never worked anywhere so wild. The wildlife here is very special but it is in need of support and conservation through tourism. I sincerely hope anyone looking to experience the real wilds of Africa will visit Matusadona NP.”
ALERT’s mission statement defines “The African Lion and Environmental Research Trust is dedicated to a multi-disciplinary approach for the facilitation and promotion of sound conservation and management plans for the African lion (Panthera leo) and the ecosystems on which the species relies. Through responsible development we aim to realize the species’ potential to provide substantial social, cultural, ecological and economic benefits, that are distributed equitably amongst stakeholders to promote sustainable motivation in them for the protection of Africa’s natural heritage.” More information on ALERT can be gained from www.lionalert.org.
The day before we arrived, Joe - manageress at the time - told us that their anti-poaching team, while patrolling in the gorge, had seen and filmed two leopard drinking at the water’s edge at the second crossroads. These shy and secretive creatures are seldom seen in daylight, and never where humans pose a threat to them. It is true testament to the restoration of the gorge to its former glory.
For more information, visit their website at www.changasafaricamp.com or e-mail them at reservations@changasafaricamp.com. Find them on Facebook and Twitter - @ChangaSafCamp - or phone ( +263 4) 498835/6, Mobile ( +263 778) 731567 and Fax (+263 4) 498480.
The major waterfall in the Sanyati in full spate. This clean water created a huge pocket in the muddy water below and can be seen at the foot of the waterfall, forming a structure line which held tigerfish.
Issue #5 February 2015
Pop-R surface lures are one of my favourite, and can be made to “burp” a bubble, lay tantalisingly motionless, or spit a long spurt ahead of the lure. Next to the Zara Spook, I had most success on these, Due to their smaller bulk too, they fitted inside the tiger’s mouth allowing for better hook-up.
My favourite for tiger - the Zara Spook and another fish of average size. We have yet to get into the double digit fish with our surface lures... a good reason to keep going back!
Pop-R surface lures are one of my favourite, and can be made to “burp” a bubble, lay tantalisingly motionless, or spit a long spurt ahead of the lure. Next to the Zara Spook, I had most success on these, Due to their smaller bulk too, they fitted inside the tiger’s mouth allowing for better hook-up.
Pop-R surface lures are one of my favourite, and can be made to “burp” a bubble, lay tantalisingly motionless, or spit a long spurt ahead of the lure. Next to the Zara Spook, I had most success on these, Due to their smaller bulk too, they fitted inside the tiger’s mouth allowing for better hook-up.
 Beware when handling fish hooked on lures, especially with treble hooks, as one good flick from them and you could find yourself attached to the set of hooks not embedded in the fish's mouth. |  Gareth Sims and his tiger taken using a Storm Chugbug. |  Bruce Cook with a tiger taken on a Rapala X Rap Walk on the middle Zambezi. Bruce has had success with various lures, among them the Rapala Skitter Pop, and a particular favourite the Helco Roosta Popper, and in sizes between 9cm to 13cm. |
|---|---|---|
 Craig Thomassen |  Rapala X-Rap Walk rigged with single hooks. |
The jury is still out on the third and final take I have experienced. With both moving and stationery lures, we have seen an oily boiling (with little sucking noises) around the lure. No mad thrashing strike, just a swirl to indicate something is showing interest. It was a take such as this which yielded a Largescale yellowfish while fishing at Chewore on the middle Zambezi, but I am hard pressed to believe all these takes (they were numerous) were yellowfish. I do believe some are tiger, and their interest may simply be passing curiosity. Having experienced gentle, non-committed takes while drifting baits in the river (especially down Kanyemba way), I imagine the tigerfish is similarly exploring the surface lure, and is neither hungry nor been triggered into a reaction strike. Maybe it is lure size, colour or shape... or some other as yet determined factor which makes the fish sneaky. Hopefully time will tell.
Other factors to consider while throwing those surface lures: While I believe surface lures work in just about all conditions, getting them into calmer water definitely helps in managing the action of the lure, and picking up subtle strikes. In the river, look for those oily back-eddies in deeper water, or cast around structure - such as lay-downs and rock or sand formations - this is usually where the hunting fish lie in ambush anyway. We have found that in areas we have fished hard, the fish do become skittish, probably because several of them have been pricked and have come to recognise the decoy. They either go off the bite completely, or strikes become more circumspect. If the bites on the third morning of your expedition die down, go in search of a new area. Once you have the lure mastered, locate and fish traditional bait drifts as it seems these areas hold fish which will happily attack a surface lure. It is a bit disconcerting to simply cast into open water with no structure, but if the fish hold there for bait fishermen, they will be there for the surface lures too.
In the end, it may well be that the best any of us will do, is hook that magical one in ten fish. If that is the name of the game, then I would be satisfied with that, because the action experienced between hooking fish, though sometimes frustrating, is unbelievably exciting.
Issue #5 February 2015
 |  |  |
|---|---|---|
 |  |  |
 |  |  |
 |  |
While the ride is over, and the money in the hands of people who are making a difference, the scurge of poaching continues, and concerned donors can still make a difference as 2015 gets underway by supporting anti-poaching wherever possible.
Below are some of the pictures taken by the cycling duo, and for more images view their album on Facebook or view their website at www.zimboundary.com
Final Amount raised US$23 148,00 with 1906 followers
Mission accomplished. Ashley and Linda
On top of the Chilojo Cliffs, Gonarezhou National Park. The days ride started at Mahenya and passed over the top of the cliffs and then down to Fishans camp for the night. Tough getting up there but well worth the effort.
Final Amount raised US$23 148,00 with 1906 followers
Issue #5 February 2015
Needless to say, I never hooked the fish, though I believe this was the slash attack, merely designed to kill or disable the prey. This will explain why tiger will return time and again to hit the same lure, and maybe why the angler is left frustrated at no hook-up. There are exceptions to this though, and I believe there are at least another two variations of strike.
Young Conor Higgins with a 17lb tiger taken in the gorge in December 2013, proof the bigguns have moved back.
© The African Fisherman Magazine 1988 - 2014. All Rights Reserved.
This website was expressly created for The African Fisherman by Web & Cloud Solutions
