Ironically, Changa Safari Camp was never envisaged as a fishing lodge, but rather built to capture the essence of Africa most sought after by intercontinental travelers. Set amongst the mopane scrub and interconnected with decked and natural walkways, the camp does indeed capture an essence not easily defined. Their description is apt and does absolute justice to that which is Changa - “Changa has been designed to blend in with the environment as much as possible and the natural materials, thatched roofs, wooden decks and walkways merge beautifully with the surrounding bush. The main lounge and library is comfortably furnished in an eclectic style, beautifully integrating leather, linen and cane to create a relaxed, homely vibe. The lounge is completely open to the gentle breeze, shaded by a thatch roof with sprawling views of the main deck, beach and lakeshore.” Pretty isn’t it? And makes you want to go?
Upon completion three years ago, the owners came face to face with a startling reality. They were not alone in this Mediterranean-like sea. Nightly, incursions by land and water based poachers infested their concession, decimating the fish and wildlife. Funds were quickly rallied and a small anti-poaching strategy put in place. But it was not enough and they quickly realised the scale of the poaching was much bigger than imagined. That the Sanyati Gorge was a base to poachers - who over the years had become complacent and even belligerent toward “intruders” - and untold damage was being done, was a stark reality. Quickly, their anti-poaching role threatened to overtake their lodge operations, and through a methodical, dedicated approach involving other operators NGOs and National Parks, the Matusadona Anti Poaching Project was born (MAPP). Today, it is one of the most active, and well equipped of its kind on the lake, and vigorous fund raising and private funding (much coming from Changa) has seen a sharp decline in poaching operations - many of which were originating from across the lake in Zambia. Space here does not allow too much depth on the subject, though an in-depth overview was published in Issue No. 3 online and they also have a very informative Facebook page.
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Changa: Exclusive By Nature
By Anthony Williams
From that distant time when the Zambezi was halted, and its waters began rising to create one of the worlds biggest man-made lakes, the Sanyati Gorge has been a place imbued with spiritual awe. Cutting through the towering Matuzviadonha mountain range, mystical fish - imagined and real - roam the waters of this once significant tributary of the Zambezi. Some even claim sightings of mermaids, or possibly Zambezi sharks, and maybe even the revered river god NyamiNyami himself took up residence when man besmirched his sacred Kariwa Gorge? Something we will never know, but it is undeniable that the Sanyati Gorge is a fish magnet.
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In the space of a year, their fish anti-poaching efforts began to yield results, and better and greater catches of bream, bottlenose and tigerfish became commonplace. Almost daily patrols in the gorge wiped out the poaching scourge, and it is amazing how quickly the fishing has been restored. That the Sanyati is a gem, is undeniable and immediately, avid fishermen began frequenting Changa due to its close proximity. Nowhere else on Kariba, is there a feature quite as unique as the gorge, and it attracts unusual and seldom caught species like bottlenose, huge Cornish jack, even bigger vundu as well as chessa and all of the bream species. Big mozzies love the steep banks and at the right time of year, almost plead to get into ones boat. But the gorge has always been remembered for its unparalleled tiger fishing, and partly because it is a favored spawning ground, and huge fish live and migrate to the river.
Changa is a beautiful camp, and really well blended. The huge and spacious tented lodges, each with their own en-suite bathroom, outdoor shower and open-air bath-tub as well as private view of the lake, bring a true element of luxury to be enjoyed after a hard and sweaty day hauling fish. The rest of the lodge is designed to ensure you relax, sitting around the pool sipping cocktails or enjoying their varied activities. Though rugged, they maintain roads within the Matusadona, and it offers a great day out if not fishing. But I did want to fish, and Changa organised a boat for me, complete with cooler box, packed lunch and enough fuel to go explore the area.
Fortunately, or unfortunately, it rained during the night over the mountain range, dropping something like 80 mils in a few hours. The gorge was chocolate brown and littered with so much floating debris, navigation with the boat was slow and difficult. I have never seen the gorge like that, and as we nosed our way through the floating logs - leaving a thick trail in the muddy surface behind - we hit rapids boiling up from the river bed - and this even before we reached the first cross roads! Sadly, the water was not just stained, but heavy with suspended silt, apparently from the illegal gold panning far upstream on the plateau. But the waterfalls toppling into the gorge were not only a sight worth marveling at, but were gushing clean water into the river to create large pockets of fresh water, where I found the tiger. If I am honest, they were not really interested in eating - I guess due to the bad visibility and silt (which I am sure does their gills no good), but I had some committed strikes on my surface lures while fishing the edge of the stained waters, and we nearly landed a fish well over ten pounds hooked on a baited spinner. In years gone by, I have fished the gorge when flowing with dirty water, and had the most amazing fishing. Kevin Higgins, co-owner of Changa experienced this while fishing in December with his son, and reports the fish were there in good quantity.
If one has seen the quantity and size of fish confiscated from poachers who used to operate in the gorge, an appreciation of this fishing Mecca can be gained. The Sanyati literally teems with fish, and not just in the spawn. There is a reason there used to be a “race to the gorge” trophy awarded during Tiger Tournament in years of old. It is also the only place I have consistently caught species like bottlenose and Cornish jack, while others often find big vundu. While the Sanyati is a success story, Kevin also reports that the bream fishing closer to Changa and among the bays and river inlets of Palm Bay and the like, has improved significantly since they opened. One does not have to run to the gorge... but be warned, you will be sad if you do not make that short trip - the experience is worth it even if not fishing.
While Changa never planned on serious fishing, they have all the equipment and have now dedicated necessary resources to offering this as an activity. They operate a Sabre, Volvo, Pelican and pontoon-type Bazooka for fishing and sundowner cruises. Three game drive safari vehicles (seating up to eight people) - with shaded canopies - operate in Matusadona and of course, they offer the guided walks for those who really want to get close to nature. Sadly, I chose fishing so will be back to explore the Matusadona... if I am ever able to ignore the Sanyati Gorge that is.
Changa Safari Camp has all the amenities catering to a wide spectrum of interests, and two of their eight tented lodges are family units sleeping four. The meals were outstanding and spoke of the standard offered to international visitors, while things like generated power (8-10 hours daily) and a massive inverter system ensure room fans keep the heat at bay, and the tents are even cool (externally) by mist sprays, used on those real stinking hot Kariba days. Access is across the lake by boat, or a flight into Fothergill Island’s bush strip where guests can be collected. For the really extravagant, Changa has an on-sight heli-pad (built to accommodate choppers during the anti-poaching operations, ongoing research work - cheetah, lion and elephant - and film making for documentaries). They work closely with other operators along the lake and will often exchange guests with places like Rhino Camp and Bumi.
Aside from their anti-poaching work, Changa have made space available - as mentioned above - to researchers working on the park. In 2014 Changa began providing a base and much needed support for Rae Kokeš of the African Lion & Environmental Research Trust (ALERT). Rae is undertaking a lion population ecology study on the Matusadona valley floor to investigate the current population viability and identify existing threats to the resident lions. The population saw a dramatic decline in the early 2000’s after the loss of buffalo, their primary prey, however it is suspected there are other population pressures at play.
Interested guests are invited to speak with Rae during their time at the camp and enjoy lion viewings alongside her as she tracks those study animals that have been radio-collared as a part of her study. Rae comments “Matusadona is almost like Zimbabwe’s hidden Eden. I’ve never worked anywhere so wild. The wildlife here is very special but it is in need of support and conservation through tourism. I sincerely hope anyone looking to experience the real wilds of Africa will visit Matusadona NP.”
The major waterfall in the Sanyati in full spate. This clean water created a huge pocket in the muddy water below and can be seen at the foot of the waterfall, forming a structure line which held tigerfish.
ALERT’s mission statement defines “The African Lion and Environmental Research Trust is dedicated to a multi-disciplinary approach for the facilitation and promotion of sound conservation and management plans for the African lion (Panthera leo) and the ecosystems on which the species relies. Through responsible development we aim to realize the species’ potential to provide substantial social, cultural, ecological and economic benefits, that are distributed equitably amongst stakeholders to promote sustainable motivation in them for the protection of Africa’s natural heritage.” More information on ALERT can be gained from www.lionalert.org.
The day before we arrived, Joe - manageress at the time - told us that their anti-poaching team, while patrolling in the gorge, had seen and filmed two leopard drinking at the water’s edge at the second crossroads. These shy and secretive creatures are seldom seen in daylight, and never where humans pose a threat to them. It is true testament to the restoration of the gorge to its former glory.
For more information, visit their website at www.changasafaricamp.com or e-mail them at reservations@changasafaricamp.com. Find them on Facebook and Twitter - @ChangaSafCamp - or phone ( +263 4) 498835/6, Mobile ( +263 778) 731567 and Fax (+263 4) 498480.
The eloquently appointed lodges... Not exactly your “tent in the bush”, boasting in and outdoor ablutions, private decks, and all the comfort of Old Safari.
Sunset is always a special time at Changa.
Positioned to look out over the lake at the Matusadona mountains, Changa enjoys four kilometers of private shoreline.
The eloquently appointed lodges... Not exactly your “tent in the bush”, boasting in and outdoor ablutions, private decks, and all the comfort of Old Safari.
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