AFC#2 Nottingham Estates | african-fisherman

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Nottingham: A Place of Elephants, Oranges & Big Fish

By Anthony Williams

There is an eloquent poem written about Zimbabwe's southernmost town of Beitbridge. It's hot, arid landscape dotted with semi-desert thorn scrub, countless goats and almost as many Datsun 120Y's inspires little other than lethargy.

The poem goes...

"S*#T, It's hot!"

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Mohomed Ali with his 11.18lb bass, caught at Darwendale on a Zoom frog in the late afternoon.

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Short and to the point, it does indeed capture what most of us know of the area. Even the Limpopo River dividing Zimbabwe and South Africa, seems to whither for most of the year. As I drove along the Bulawayo/Beitbridge road, I realised that other than my many border crossings over the years, and my lofty view of the river from the bridge, I knew little of it, or the surrounding area. Following an invite to visit the Nottingham Estates Fishing Resort, I will admit to being a little dubious about the fishing I might find. Located on the banks of the Limpopo less than 40km drive from the border, Nottingham Estates however encompasses some spectacular landscapes, wildlife, two separate camps and indeed fishing. As we completed the nearly 30km of very good gravel road from the main Bulawayo/Beitbridge highway (13km from the border), we crested a small hill and the panorama of Nottingham’s dam opened up before us. Quite breathtaking.

Built 10 years ago, the seven chalets nestle along a small kopje overlooking the dam, each with its own view out over the water. The entire camp will sleep up to 25 people, and each lodge has bathroom en-suite, tea making facilities for those early mornings, air conditioning (see poem above), and full 220v mains power throughout the day while a back-up generator provides power on the odd occasions of power cuts. Available to group bookings on a self cater basis, or fully catered if that is your preference, the retreat has a compliment of nine staff including chefs (also capable of preparing special dietary menus), general hands and boat guide and one need only take food and drink.

The main kitchen, dining room/lounge and bar area (NOTE, visitors must bring all their own drinks, as the resort does not stock or supply any) is located on top of the kopje central to all chalets. Brimming with facilities, it boasts upright display bar fridges, ample freezer space, ice makers, DStv, unlimited satellite wi-fi internet, and a fully equipped kitchen. The entire camp is supplied by filtered (through a reverse osmosis filtration plant) drinking water too. A lawned area with adjacent pool deck completes the facility, and in itself provides enough distraction for those not wanting to spend full days out on the water.

The dam is simply spectacular! Built in 1993 to supplement water supplied to the citrus estates from the Limpopo, it pushes back some 7km and is jam packed with structure. Flooded trees, rock islands, bull rushes, water weeds, chicamba weed and a typically jagged and rocky shore line which will keep the avid angler busy for days. Indeed, in our four days there, we only managed to fully explore a small part of the dam, often simply using the bass motor right from the jetty, and working into the many bays close-by. Taking a leisurely sundowner cruise on the last evening of our stay to the upper reaches, I felt a bit cheated we had not explored further. Interestingly, after many years of being low (due to the limited rainfall of the area), it benefitted from the massive floods of 2012 which saw the Limpopo flood to almost reach the famed bridge at the border. This boosted the dam such, that after the flood, they were picking fish out of the tops of trees! The bass are in incredible condition - fat and round - and I suspect the dam is undergoing a renewal growth spurt, similar to that when such water bodies are first created. It is all very exciting, and I am sure is going to be a hot venue for the foreseeable future.

Even though it was the dead of winter (June), it was shorts and T-shirt weather for most of the time. The fishing was a bit slow, but way better than I expected, with even a ten pound bass caught during our visit. Bass fishing is the main attraction, and the dam record stands at 7,2kg caught about five years back by a local Beitbridge angler. The dam has a good population of nillies too, which though they take static baits, seem to prefer small spinners and even plugs. This would be great fun when they are properly on the bite. The other bream species are present too, and one could expect to catch Three Spot, mozzies and redbreast. Interestingly, they have also caught African Mottled eels (on baits used for barbel), a species known to migrate from the sea up rivers. Being linked to the Limpopo, the dam obviously still attracts the specie and would make an interesting catch on any trip.

The resort has a good gravel launch ramp, and a secure, covered floating jetty to moor customer boats. They also operate two aluminium pontoon boats with small outboards for hire at very reasonable rates ($50/day or $25/half day incl. fuel) and a fully equipped, decked bass fishing boat with 115hp, either with, or without driver. These boats are also available for sundowner cruises at a very reasonable $30 per boat per hour. For those not wanting to fish, guests are welcome to self-drive the estate or for $20 per vehicle, will be chauffeured in a game-drive equipped Land Cruiser. There is much to see on the estate from ancient rock paintings and dwellings, spectacular rock formations - an ancient volcano eruption site - and even dinosaur fossils close-by. Walking and cycling routes are also available for those energetic guests, and Nottingham host an annual “Tour-de-Tuli” event attracting some 500 cyclists. If your interest extends to the operations of the citrus estate, a tour of their factories and facilities can be arranged. The game is not prolific but one will see all the usual plains game and even elephant.

As a service to their South African clients, Nottingham Estates has recently announced the introduction of a shuttle service between Zimbabwe and Musina in South Africa for their South African guests. Says Nella Cox - manageress of Nottingham “We will be introducing a bus shuttle service for all our future clients who want to come to the fishing retreat in the near future! idea! We know the border is a major stumbling block, so we want to help all our South African clients enjoy a hassle free holiday. We will have two 12 seater shuttle's, collecting our clients in Musina and transporting them through the border without any hassles. We have a safe, secure depot where you will be able to have peace of mind at storing your vehicle while you have a wonderful, relaxing holiday at the retreat. If clients want us to bring their personal boats through, not a problem! We will tow their boats to the lodge.”

And the elephants... they are something special. For six months of the year - May to October - orange fruit pulp from the citrus juicing factory, is dumped at a very special location where the elephants come to feed. Witnessing the feast of elephants brought Nottingham into sharp focus. It is one of those places which inspire a certain tranquillity that somehow transcend most other beautiful or scenic locales. Certain drifts on the Zambezi, a particular airstrip I remember, a deserted beach in Mozambique and the Namib desert are some that work for me. I am sure it is different for different people, and location is something which strikes a chord inside each of us for differing reasons, conjuring an old memory, re-igniting an image from our childhood, or even triggering a primal sense from long before we could remember... maybe even from the womb. I do not know what makes some places more significant than others, but do know that one’s soul seems to know. It only takes a split second for that spark of recognition to ignite, and suddenly a

warm, fuzzy feeling settles within as that ember grows and a peace descends.

Not what I was expecting when the trip was planned, I found the area to be somewhat different to my past experiences - often bad - of countless border crossings. A few minutes off the main road, and the sweeping grandeur of the area began speaking to me... winding dirt roads, baobabs and occasional rock kopjes. The first view of the dam, and meeting of new and old friends, and the stage was set.

As part of our visit, we were to be treated to an afternoon game drive, followed by sundowners at a place where elephants gather, and dinner under the stars. I cannot remember if ever I have seen an elephant this far south, but was assured I would on this trip. Nottingham is a citrus estate, and have a juicing plant which produces large volumes of pulped orange and peel. For years, they have dumped this pulp, on a daily basis for six months of the year, at a location the elephants have come to love... and I mean L O V E.

I am guessing that after years of this delicacy, they know where and when to find it. That said, recent studies published in the journal Genome Research, examined the olfactory receptor (OR) range in 13 mammalian species including man. They found the African elephant has the largest number of OR genes ever characterised. Researchers identified over 10 000 OR genes in total. The repertoire of OR genes found in any given species was highly unique - only three OR genes were shared and evolutionarily conserved amongst all 13 mammals. The African elephant, they found, had the most extensive olfactory repertoire, with almost 2 000 OR genes. So, they could find the oranges on a moonless night, blindfolded and probably hypnotized to forget. But I digress...

The chalets set on the lake shore.	Comfortably appointed brick and tile, the bedrooms look directly onto the water.	A bathroom, furnished by a woman's touch - every fisherman's dream :)
The main lodge area includes an outside lawn and pool deck.	The bar/dining/lounge and kitchen area.	The pontoons, safe and great family seating.
The floating boat dock provides secure and covered boat parking and safe access to boats as the dam has a good many crocs.	The lawn boasts a stunning view of the water too.

Cresting a little hillock, the landscape opened before us, stretching away to the south in a vast broken, moon-like landscape, generally flat with pimples of rock-strewn kopjes haphazardly dotted here and there. A small cliff dropped away from our high-ground viewing point, and below, a natural amphitheater enclosed by ancient rock formations welcomed the game. Here, piles of pulp, its fragrance carrying on the warm late afternoon air, summoned the elephants, and all manner of other game. The small cliff walls of the amphitheater were festooned with baboons, their impatient barks echoing over the scene, while eland stood patiently waiting their turn. The elephants though, filed into the amphitheater opening in an orderly fashion, seemingly in small groups all part of the whole, and would often stop and commune or “chat” with other elephants. Almost human-like, they rubbed heads, touched trunks and nudged each other before moving on.

As the sun dipped to the western horizon, more elephants came, and as they did, the little groups which had enjoyed their fill, detached as one - kind of like watching one of those lava lamps - and moved through the exit to walk in single file into the growing dusk, one or two stopping to rub against a tree, or mock charge the eland. A lower platform on the cliff gave us a more direct viewing of the pachyderms, and some good photographs, while all the time watching and being amazed by their unique and complete interaction. It was simply awe inspiring.

A beautiful bass dam with varied and prolific structure.

Any serious bass fisherman would be tantalized by the structure here, but there is a varied selection, not least, nillies...

The elephants were aware of us but felt no threat and accepted us in their space as they feasted on their treat.

A beautiful bass dam with varied and prolific structure.

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With the sun all but gone, and the flood lights casting a strange golden hue over the scene, the elephants kept coming. We counted over 100, but they are only a quarter of the estimated 400 elephant which know about the “place of the oranges”, and visit frequently. A last tinge of orange framed the sky as distant twinkling farm lights heralded the end of dusk. Night jars called, and a distant owl responded and still the elephants came. From behind us, our al-fresco dinner wafted to mingle with the smell of oranges, elephants, an open mopane pit-fire and braaing boerewors... and the sundowners took gentle effect. Guests are treated to this experience for a nominal fee, and if nothing else, this is a draw card and a spectacle not to be missed.

But wait. There is more. Just 10km away from the main fishing resort and dam, Nottingham have another camp, set beneath sprawling shade trees right on the banks of the Limpopo. Nearly washed away during the 2012 floods - and was almost completely submerged, Kuduland Lodge has been re-built and re-furbished to offer guests something different. Built some 30 years ago as a simple hunting camp, it is more rustic than the fishing resort, while its tranquil riverine setting has something special, and while group bookings can be made on a self-cater basis, fully catered, the lodge can accommodate up to 18 people in six quaint lodges overlooking the river. Aside from the lodges, Kuduland has designated campsites with quality ablutions, and one can even camp along the river away from the madding crowd too.

Although the Limpopo does not flow strongly throughout the year, keen anglers will catch fish in the many pools which dot the riverbed, and all guests have free access to the main dam for day visits. Boats can be left at the dam, and the drive is easy on the good roads of the estate. Kuduland is set up to really suit family groups, and as it has access to all the activities offered at the main resort, one gets the best of both worlds. My next visit will be to stay there.

A couple of years back, the fishing resort was taken over, and is now managed by Nella and Anne-Marie, while Kuduland is managed by Nella’s sister Elaina. All have been in the tourism industry most of their lives, and the lodges reflect their attention to detail in every respect. Noticeable for me, was the distinct woman’s touch evident in the little things that make both facilities so comfortable. Our group was quite big, as was that staying at Kuduland, and never once did they seem to break a sweat looking after us all. It was indeed a great long-weekend retreat.

Kuduland offers a separate picnic area complete with pool (when the hippos are not frolicking in it) for day visitors wishing to get away for the day. Both facilities will accept individual, short-term bookings on an all inclusive basis for those traveling to and from South Africa and wanting a convenient stop over that beats any roadside hotel. For those in either the south of Zimbabwe or the northern areas of South Africa, Nottingham Fishing Resort is a easy four hour drive, and has been frequented as much by South Africans as Zimbabweans. For those wanting to fly in, Nottingham has their own 1000 registered air strip ( coordinates s22 06.796 - e29 37.664).

Nottingham's second facility - Kuduland Lodge.	Set on the banks of the Limpopo with chalets...	...and available camping facilities.

This is truly a stunning and unique part of Africa, as old and unique as the deserts, mountain ranges and even rivers. Bass fishing and good people aside, it certainly is a new one of my special places. I hope you might find it so too one day. For bookings, directions or more information, visit their website at www.nottinghamadventures.co.za or email them at bookings@nottinghamestate.co.za.