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Spinnerbait Smile | An Introduction to Spinnerbaits for Bass

Spinnerbaits are an important part of any bass angler's arsenal, and though they may appear gaudy to the human eye, bass anglers believe they imitate small bait fish preyed on by hunting bass. Few professional or accomplished bass anglers would rate the spinnerbait as their “top lure” but few would be caught without one in their arsenal and there are occasions when it is what the fish want. Many fishermen believe that spinnerbaits are lures effective only in spring in stained, discolored, windblown water.

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It's true spinnerbaits are good in these conditions, but they're capable of catching bass year-round in most any condition and those who throw spinnerbaits more than occasionally aver they will catch fish all-year round if applied properly. They are also one of the most weedless lures ever designed, and when the bass are in amongst newly flooded vegetation, few other baits can perform as well.

 

Even during the cooler months, spinnerbaits will catch fish. And as is the case across many places in southern Africa, recently filled dams will have plenty of submerged structure and new weed growth ideal for spinnerbait fishing. Even as we approach the end of the dry season, longer, warmer days are an ideal time for working appearing structure.

 

Choosing the right colours for specific conditions can become overwhelming, but as a guide, the experts suggest white in clear water during sunny days; chartreuse and white for dirty water and sunny days; blue and/or chartreuse for clear water on overcast days; chartreuse in dirty water on overcast days and bright colors in muddy water regardless of sky conditions.

Spinnerbaits are casting lures and as such, a more flexible rod is required - a 1,8m rod (6') of a medium action, or with a medium action tip - is ideal for casting this lure accurately. Line thickness is relevant here, as it affects the depth at which the bait will run, and if too visible may affect the bass' tendency to hit it. Today’s Flourocarbon and supper strong, thin braid lines are ideal when fishing spinnerbaits. While bait casting reels are preferred by most, many pro's use spinning reels when fishing spinnerbaits.

 

The lure itself should be checked before going into battle. Though some anglers may trim the living rubber skirt to just below the bend of the hook, others add a plastic trailer of some description, and often a trailer hook to deal with short-striking fish. The blade arm should be checked to ensure that it is aligned directly in line with the hook, acting as a kind of weed guard in heavy vegetation. Another simple modification is to alter the angle of the wire just above the lead‑head, tuning it for different depths, either closing the gap between hook and blades (for deeper running) or widening the gap to run just below the surface. Retrieve speed obviously plays an important part in the depth at which this lure will run. The faster one retrieves the bait, the closer it will run to the surface. Blade design has an influence on this aspect too.

 

We all know how to cast and retrieve a spinnerbait, and many anglers think this is what it is all about. WRONG! There is a certain amount of action and life that can be imparted to this lure, and although there may be little one can do to enhance its rather plain action, giving it character on the retrieve will prompt an undecided fish into acting. Many bass fishermen like to keep their spinnerbaits in sight to take full advantage of visible underwater structure, and certainly a good pair of Polaroid sunglasses will make a significant difference to targeting that structure in shallower water.

Cast beyond your intended target and get the lure running at the right depth. As the spinnerbait approaches the target, steer it in such a way that it will bump a limb, rock or any other part of the structure. The sudden deflection of the lure and corresponding change in appearance is often all it takes to trigger a strike. Quite often the spinnerbait will not be taken on the first pass, and for the second cast, repeat the process, with the difference that as the lure bumps the structure “kill” it, stopping the retrieve dead, and allow the bait to flutter down about 20cm alongside the structure. Again the change in action has the desired effect on the fish, and this time, because the retrieve has been halted, the bait remains in the strike zone longer. Fish will often hit the lure on the drop, but remember to raise the rod tip slightly as the retrieve stops, ensuring there is no slack line and you are in contact with the lure at all times. After a short pause (long enough for the lure to drop about six inches), begin the retrieve again. This constitutes another change in motion and may excite the fish inquisitively watching the lure.

This technique can be varied altering the depth of the drop and the length of the retrieve in between drops. A third cast can be made, and as the lure hits the structure, kill it, and allow it to flutter all the way to the lake bed. Hopefully the bass has followed it all the way, and is now poised eyeing the "dead" bait expectantly. With a sharp twitch of the rod, you begin your retrieve again, and more out of reaction than anything else, the bass pounces on the lure in an attempt to kill it. More often than not, the bass will take the bait as it begins to move again, so be prepared for the strike.

This start/stop retrieve is often used as a specialised method and is best done with a single bladed spinnerbait (preferably a large single Colorado blade) as it vibrates more and flutters slower than smaller blades. . Dual blade spinnerbaits are not ideal for this type of retrieve, as the first blade creates turbulence for the second blade, which then does not perform properly when fluttering.

He kicked out hard, and in that same instant he saw the crocodile as it launched itself at him and gripped his arm in its massive jaws! Even in the terror of the moment, Alistair realised that the tip of the crocodile’s jaw was about a metre from its eyes. The observation was only theoretical, for in the second Alistair felt himself being spun around as the fearsome reptile tried to tear his arm out of its socket. He felt the solid tail twisting around his legs as the crocodile looked him straight in the face. With his good arm, Alistair tried to jam a thumb into its eye but couldn’t reach. The crocodile began to gain control and was pulling him into shallower water. Alistair realised that this would mean that his enemy would be able to use the leverage of the bottom and pull him under the water to drown. In cold-blooded desperation he forced his good arm down the reptile’s throat and curled his thumb and fingers around the flap that seals off the crocodile’s lungs when it goes under water. This sent the beast into a frenzy, but made it release Alistair’s badly mutilated arm and allowed him to escape and clamber up the steep bank. He was attacked again as he scrambled up the exposed roots and out of the river, but the reptile’s strikes fell short and Alistair collapsed against a fallen tree.

A stop/start type retrieve is often used when fishing steep rock faces and other structure with the spinnerbait, retrieving it almost as one would a plastic worm. The key here is maintaining contact with the bottom. Make your cast, allow it to sink to the bottom then begin your slow retrieve. You must "feel" your spinnerbait along the bottom. As you bump structure or cover "stop" and feel the bait over the rock, stump, limb or whatever you've contacted. Then resume your retrieve.

Again expect the strike to come at a point where you begin moving the bait again, after a pause.

 

Other techniques include retrieving the spinnerbait to create a wake. In murky, shallow water, cast past a lay-down or other heavy cover and immediately raise the rod tip high and reel quickly. As the spinnerbait rises to the surface, slow the retrieve slightly so that the blades do not break the water. The lure will throw a fish‑attracting wake. Alternatively, one can buzz the lure faster to break the surface in murky or shallow water. Cast, and reel quickly with the rod tip held high letting the blades of the bait break the surface, creating a very visible, noisily splashing target easy to see and home in on.

*These fish were the original Northern strain, a smaller, slower growing fish first introduced in 1932. The introduction of the faster growing Florida strain in 1981, and its cross breeding with the original strain, can account for the larger record fish from the late eighties onward.

Slower retrieves in deeper water work too. Helicopter the spinnerbait when fishing steep banks, ledges or drop‑offs. Let the lure sink to the bottom on a tight line. The spinner blade will rotate as the bait drops. When it hits bottom, reel up the slack, raise the rod top slightly and drop it again.

 

When bass are hiding fairly deep along drop‑offs or submerged cover slow-rolling is called for. Cast toward shallow water, point the rod tip down and retrieve very slowly, just fast enough for the blades to turn, so the bait will sink as it swims and roughly follow the deepening contour of the lake bed. A heavy bait (3/4 to 1 ounce) works best for this technique.

 

 

The spinnerbait is one of the most versatile baits available to anglers, and as has been outlined, can be fished in most conditions and using many different techniques... slow, fast, deep, shallow and in clean and dirty water, hot, cold, summer or winter. Don’t be afraid to experiment and be imaginative with the way you bring life to your spinnerbait.

TIPS

 

- Check the blades run directly above the hook. If they do not, bend the wire until they do to prevent the lure hanging up in structure.

 

- Learn to cast underhand for the best presentation.

 

- Try casting onto the shore and gently pulling the lure into the water for a quieter presentation.

 

- Spinnerbaits should be among the first baits you use in the spring. They are especially well‑suited to cold water, but also work well in warm, murky water.

 

- Spinnerbaits are excellent night‑fishing lures. Use a contrasting dark‑colored skirt at night such as black and purple, red and black, etc.

 

- For daytime fishing, light colors such as white and chartreuse often work best.

 

- A little red somewhere on the spinnerbait is often an asset. Use a colored plastic grub or worm threaded onto the main hook to achieve this.

 

- Add a trailer of plastic to a spinnerbait for more appeal, more buoyancy, and greater lift.

 

Blade Size Chart - Blade sizes may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the size comparisons (right) will be accurate for most blades.

Blade Size Chart - Blade sizes may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the size comparisons (right) will be accurate for most blades.

Blades

Spinnerbaits come equipped with a variety of blade types, colors and combinations and while modern designs include holograph finishes and an array of variations on the main theme blades - Colorado, Willow and Indiana - do not become over-complicated and confused. Begin with silver blades in clear water and gold or copper blades in murky/stained water or combination of colours. Clear water and shallow fish may require a switch to white blades to reduce flash which might spook skittish bass. Below is an overview of blade types and suggested applications.

 

Single Blade: Single blade designs often produce better in deeper, clearer water, or when fish aren't actively feeding. In cold water, use blades that create the most water resistance like the Colorado blade as this allows a slower presentation. For low light conditions, and in heavily stained water, use single blades for more vibration. In real muddy water, use a 1/2 ounce bait with a big blade.

             

Tandem Blade: Tandem blade spinnerbaits often work best in murky water or when fishing grass or thick cover and provide more flash (use two different colored blades).

 

Colorado: Use Colorado blades for bass in early spring and for sluggish bass in shallow water. They produce the most vibration making them ideal for fishing deep, in murky water, or at night.

 

Willowleaf: Ideal for fishing vegetation as their long, thin profile makes them snag‑resistant and weed‑resistant. They create a lot of flash, which imitates a baitfish.

 

Indiana: This design falls between Colorado and willowleaf blades offering a good compromise between the two designs.  The Colorado creates a lot of vibration, while the willow‑leaf produces a lot of flash. The Indiana has some of both attributes without overdoing it.

- Add a trailer hook to the spinnerbait's hook to catch short‑striking fish. (If fishing open water, reverse the trailer hook for an even better strike‑to-catch ratio).

 

- Avoid trailer hooks when working thick brush as the lure will snag more often.

 

- Keep the lure near structure - This is where it is most effective.

 

- A single spin may produce more vibration, but the tandem helps ensure at least one blade spins continuously when banging brush.

 

- Whenever you detect a pause in the beat of a blade, set the hook, it’s likely a fish.

 

- If wind or current has dirtied the water, increase the vibration and flash.  If it’s calm, try smaller blades with less flash. It’s easy to spook fish in shallow water by throwing big, noisy lures.

 

- Experiment with bright, gaudy colors. Sometimes bass will annihilate them.

 

- Don't scrimp on spinnerbaits. Buy the best you can. Quality spinnerbaits use ball bearing swivels and high quality hooks.

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