A rift valley formed running due east of where the Kafue National Park is today, and the Kafue river, eroding a channel through a ridge of 100m high hills called the Itezhi-Tezhi Gap, diverted eastwards. The Itezhi-Tezhi Dam was built in 1977 at the gap and now forms a reservoir 50km long and up to 10km wide with an area of 370km² and is a fishing paradise in its own right. Unique too, is the fact that the nearly 1 000km-long Kafue is wholly contained within Zambia, rising on its northern border and meeting the Zambezi at its southern border about 20km north of Chirundu.
Over the last few years, Clive Harris (of the Master Angler tackle shop in Harare) and good friend, Derek Hinde, have traveled to Zambia to fish the Kafue at various junctions, searching for the ever elusive mix of accessibility, unspoiled river and usable infrastructure - accommodation, fuel etc. The primary specie has been the largemouth breams - Serranochromis - most notably the nembwe (Serranochromis robustus), yellow belly or robbie as it is known, but has included thinface largemouth (Serranochromis augusticeps), humpback largemouth (Serranochromis altus) and the African pike (Hepsetus odoe). Interestingly, tigerfish do not occur in the Kafue system, a bonus when fishing the types of lures traditionally employed for the largemouth bream - plugs, jigs and plastics.
The Adventures of the Kafue
Compiled by Ant Williams, in association with Clive Harris and Derek Hinde
The Kafue River is one of Africa’s little known angling gems. A major tributary of the Zambezi, few of us get to experience it other than at the point where it enters the Zambezi not far from Chirundu. Rising on the northern Zambian border, much of its course is inaccessible, and those roads that exist, are often bad, vehicle breaking dirt and black cotton soil, a fact which discourages most would-be visitors. Information is generally scarce too, but for those who accept the challenge, the fishing for Africa’s mighty nembwe and other largemouth bream, is unmatched anywhere.
The Kafue River in Zambia’s hinterland, like the Zambezi, rises close to the border with the Congo in the north. Also like the Zambezi, its course once took it north/south, all the way to Lake Makgadikgadi and the Limpopo River, but sometime in the distant past, the land mass welled up, cutting its southward flow.
This was a fantastic fishing trip. It’s not for everybody, sure. There are many lodges and resorts in Brazil that offer peacock bass fishing, where you can retire to your air-conditioned room when it gets hot, but in those places you’re cheek to jowl with lots of other people, and, well... you’re still in civilisation! This area where we were is pristine. It’s hard to get to, but it’s worth it. In the eight days we were on the river we only saw about 2 or 3 other boats, one of them driven by a very suspicious looking couple. Jerome thought they were probably fishing poachers – judging by their numerous cool-boxes.
Our camp was a fly camp – long drop toilets, no showers (Jerome erected a small area in the river fenced off with chicken wire, and that’s where you wash); the tents were good, deep freeze, generator, the boating equipment was perfect for the job, and most importantly, the fishing in the lagoons was unbelievable. And Jerome says he’s seen more lagoons on Google Earth that he’s not even explored yet!
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The Kafue is fascinating in all its variations. Rising at some 1300 feet above sea level and with a total basin area of 157 000km² , it meanders along a relatively flat plateau with gently undulating topography. The river starts as a trickle from marshy dambos (vlei-type areas) and with little slope to speed up river flow, it meanders sluggishly south-eastwards. Within 50km though it has the character of a mature river, and during the rains it spreads to 100m and more in places. Along its course, it feeds farms - both small and large-scale, supplies the copper mining industry, and through its two dams - Itezhe-Tezhi and Kafue Dam - provides hydro electricity. Its many swamps, dambos, flood plains and wetlands such as the Lukanga Swamp (covering 6000 km²) make for rich and diverse Flora and Fauna quite unique on the African continent. Clive says the bird life is simply spectacular commenting “In some places, you can never look up without seeing a sky full of birds.” Some 490 bird species have been recorded from the area. Derek adds “Bird life is amazing in early season – ducks and water birds by the thousands. However later in the season (July onwards) there are fewer birds because the flood plains have drained and so there is less habitat and food for ducks and the like. On the upper sections, we saw Finfoots, raptors, Pels fishing owls and more.”
The Kafue National Park was established in the 1950s and at 22 400km² is reputed to be Africa’s second biggest park, and was Clive and Derek’s chosen destination in May of 2013. Within the park, two main tributaries - the Lunga and Lufupa rivers - swell its flow and the river skirts the south-east edge of the Busanga Plain, one of Africa’s premier natural wildlife areas known for large herds of Cape buffalo, zebra and antelope. Aside from the fishing, wildlife and of course birds are spectacular and a good pair of binoculars, cameras and good lenses are absolutely essential f you plan a visit.
Clive was fortunate to stay at a hunting camp called Kafue River Camp (e-mail - kafueriver@iwayafrica.com) on the edge of the upper Kafue National Park, which offered them a self-cater base right on the river (they also have reasonable camping available). Here, the river is relatively narrow, broken by rock formations, islands and channels characterised by mangrove-type vegetation with trees overhanging the river bank and providing ideal Serranochromis habitat. Foregoing a conventional fibreglass boat, Derek took a 14 foot aluminium Tracker powered by a 15hp and fitted with swivel seats and bass motor. This they transported atop Derek’s Cruiser which negated towing a boat over the sometimes not-so-good dirt roads.“The river has many rapids, and the Tracker was ideal as it is very manouevreable through the rapids which run at about 8km/hr.” says Clive. This is almost twice as fast as the average Zambezi flow. During that trip, they ranged some 25km up-stream and occasionally the same down stream into the park where the river is slower, shallower and begins to meander onto the flood plain. Crocs and hippo are common in this section, and Derek says the hippo can be quite cheeky, so give them a wide berth.
April is reputed to be the best time of year, as the higher water levels make negotiating the river easier. Clive and Derek visited in May, and though the river was down about a meter, it was still navigable. Derek says “I think this section needs to be fished in April (depending on rain and water levels). The fish are smaller here, but I am told in April, abundant. May and July though, I have found the fishing to be tough.” The nembwe - as in the upper Zambezi - hide out around structure, like the tangled root systems along the banks, or in the faster rapids behind current breaks such as rocks, islands and lay-downs. Although the largemouths are opportunistic predators, their preferred diet consists of crustaceans such as snails and especially crabs. All along the river, sections of clay mud banks support crabs which burrow into the banks, and never far away are the nembwe and occasional thinface and humpback.
Using light to medium action spinning or casting rods spooled with 10-14lb fluorocarbon or braid line, Clive says “Our main lures consisted of small hinged spinnerbaits with Triple Ripple trailers - red or chartreuse - Effzetts, and various Rapalas which we used for wider sections of river, especially those with mud banks.” The fish hold very tight to the structure, and accuracy is everything. Most of their fish came from casting to the shore line, close to rock piles, under Waterberry trees, logs and lay downs. Later in the season as the river recedes and exposes the rocks, the fish move to hold close to them. Says Derek “Vegetation on river bank is beautiful but requires good pitching skills to get to the fish. Later in the year it is easier to get to fish because the water is shallower and they move out to rocky areas. Experienced local anglers fish a lot with spoons (Effzet) and crank baits and either troll or cast out to middle river rocks. This is primarily to locate the fish, and once a hot-spot is identified they go back and fish it more thoroughly. Often, the higher water level is concealing gully inlets where the ox-bow lakes are draining back into the river. Nembwe gather at these inlets and trolling helps locate them quickly. However, Clive and I did very little of that.”
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African pike were caught too, and though not as prolific as the targeted nembwe, they do inhabit the quieter backwaters along the river. Caught in thicker weed and vegetation, they will take small spinners and lures retrieved close to the surface and slowed to drop into holes in the weed. Known as a top water predator, they stalk and ambush prey with a swift and sudden rush. Though they do not attain any great weight they are an attractive and unique specie to add to ones”bucket list.” Females are bigger than males and known at attain 2kg, though the Zimbabwe Angling Record caught above Victoria Falls stands at 0.640kg and that for RSA at ).805kg. Once adult, their main diet is other fish, and they will prey on fish up to 40% their own size.
Interestingly, the Zambians hold an annual River Lure Tournament, staged from Kitwe in the north, and many competitors run over 100km downstream daily to fish close to the park. As the water’s up, they pass over the rocks and other obstructions Clive and Derek fished, but Derek comments “Those guys are crazy and sometimes run over 100km to fishing spots with 200hp outboards - maybe they have cleared the river bottom of rocks with their outboards!”
Clive and Derek’s next visit in October of 2013 took them to Itezhi-Tezhi Dam and Kafue river section below the wall. Clive says “Itezhe-Tezhi Dam is massive, not unlike parts of Kariba with standing timber, islands and rocky shorelines. We used a Ruffnek Maverick powered by a 90hp E-Tec which could be uncomfortable when the wind picked up. The water levels vary greatly depending on time of year and during our visit in October, the dam level was down about 10 meters.” Interestingly, Itezhe Tezhe stores water to be released feeding Kafue Dam hydro-electric scheme downstream, a station which supplies 50% of Zambia’s power. Derek comments “The dam is already impacting on the lower section and I think will spoil the river to a certain extent – a bit like what has happened to the middle Zambezi below Kariba, so we will only know what the effects are going to be over the next few years, but there will be changes.”
The western shoreline of the lake though, borders the Kafue National Park, so visitors will invariably have game viewing there too. Fishing on the dam requires a Parks fishing permit and the authorities are very serious about licenses, and stiff penalties apply if you are caught without one.
The Effzett spinners are a favourite lure and Clive and Derek also used deep diving crank baits such as the Rapala DT range, Shadraps and Fatraps in Firetiger, craw and crawdad and similar in 5cm and 7cm. Again, all the largemouth bream are present in the dam, with the added species of the Southern mouthbrooder (Pseudocrenilabrus philander) being very common along the rocky shorelines. This specie occurs throughout most of southern Africa, though like the pike, does not attain any great size (around 130mm).
Staying at Musungwa Lodge (www.musungwa.com), Clive and Derek had access to the river below the wall as well - just a few minutes drive from the dam - where the Kafue River water level remains fairly constant depending on what is released through the spillway and turbines. A good concrete slipway to launch boats is available too. The river banks are heavily wooded with trees and lots of reeds so a weedless jig is the best lure. “Red claw crayfish exist in this section of river, hence the jig should be black/red with a crawfish trailer, and claws dyed red. Small heavy spinnerbaits will get bites on the drop, but as the current here is swift, casting must be accurate.” says Clive. A bass boat with a good trolling motor is essential and accurate casting and pitching into structure will be rewarded with BIG Nembwe. “Our biggest was six and a half pounds with lots of fish in the four pound bracket.” he said. Baitcasting combos with medium heavy pitching sticks are best. Clive prefers 10-16lb fluorocarbon line to the braids because as he says “it retrieves more smoothly through sticks and bark. Find banks with the fastest water which is normally deeper, say 16-20 feet, and work it thoroughly and s-l-o-w-l-y.”
As an aside, both Derek and Clive are keen flyfishers, and though this technique was tried with pretty good results, it was difficult with two on a small boat. Derek has caught well using attractor type flies like the Wooly Bugger on sinking line, and if your fly casting is up to scratch, it offers the perfect technique for getting the fly in the right target area among the roots etc.
Clive and Derek boated and fished a section of the Kafue 100km in extent, often from just below the wall in the very fast water where big fish are reputed to hang out. Mostly though, they focused on the downstream section, boating up to 40km downstream daily. The best fishing was found to be downstream though fuel is a consideration.
Derek comments “The lower section has plenty of local fishing pressure as the area is similar to Zimbabwe’s communal land. This changes somewhat during the rainy season as they prefer to net in the flood plains. I have fished here now in early May and July. July was too cold and I think September may be interesting as the water heats up, but unfortunately by then local pressure will be high as well as pressure from commercial hook and cook guys from Zambia. Our trip in May gave the best quality robbie fishing I have ever had - except maybe on the upper Zam - but I stress you need local information. We were lucky because water was being released and had flooded the plains, but if this does not happen and the rainfall is bad then there may be a whole new ball game.”
This area, like the Upper Kafue in the park, can be a nightmare to get to, and depending on water levels, difficult to navigate and fish. Derek says of the lower sections “The bottom section runs mostly through flood plains and flatter country and therefore tends to have more human habitation along it’s banks. Because of the flood plain and generally shallower river it is VERY beneficial to get seasonal information regarding river levels. Most years the river floods in March/April, so it is difficult to get to but easier to boat the upper section.” It was with this in mind, that their next trip was planned to Namwala - the southernmost point on their Kafue adventures.
Upper Kafue National Park.
Route: Kariba, Lusaka, then West Highway (N9) to Mumbwa (this is about 150km), then north +/- 120km on sometimes not so good dirt road to the ferry at Lubungu- and then about 10km to Kafue River Camp - GPS 14 29,841s/26 31,20e.
Website www.kafueriver.com.
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Route to Itezhi-Tezhi Dam: Lusaka, West Highway (M9) to Mumbwa + 63 km. South West on very bad dirt of about 120km. While this road was very bad in 2013, the road is under refurbishment and was planned to be complete for 2015 cutting travel time down considerably. Various camps/lodges are available, catered or self catered and Musungwa is a great option and can be contacted to confirm the state of the road too - E-mail - safker@global.co.za. Lusaka office phone: (+260) 211 273493, Mobile: (+260) 966846632 / 0977846632 / 0966876522. Due to a trailer breakdown which took two plus hours, this trip took them 15 hours from Kariba in 2013 - be sure to leave ample time for your trip.
The Kafue is fascinating and with a basin area of 157 000km² , is interspersed with varied river terrain. Along its course, it feeds farms - both small and large-scale, supplies the copper mining industry, and through its two dams - Itezhe-Tezhi and Kafue Dam - provides hydro electricity. Its many swamps, dambos, flood plains and wetlands make for rich and diverse Flora and Fauna quite unique on the African continent.
Having fished two very different locations along the Kafue, Namwala seemed to offer the easiest road access and with Itezhi Tezhi so close, fuel (costs around $2/litre) and provisions would not be a problem. With help of some Zambian farming friends, accommodation too was located. Clive writes “The lodge in Namwala (contact the owner - Mr. Evans Banda on telephone +260 979 412 791) is basic but comfortable - clean sheets, hot showers, self catering - but take your cooking/camping gear. At K200 (around US$35) per day per lodge for two people sharing, it is very affordable. One can beach the boat right at the chalet at night (depending on water level), safe with all-night security guards.” There is also a good concrete launching ramp at the Fisheries Department at Namwala.
Alternatively, some devoted Zambian anglers keep an eye on water levels, and once the river is off the flood plain, they range an area downstream of Namwala, driving across the plain and simply camping at likely spots. Derek has done this too, and says it offers a great and inexpensive option, which was comfortable and safe.
Nearest fuel at Namwala is at Itezhi Tezhi which is about 60km by road, or as they did, can be reached via boat and a taxi ride to the fuel station with a chigub - but also about 80km by boat. “We did fill up at Choma on our trip in” says Clive.
One is not right on the Kafue, but several winding channels through the lagoons connect to the main river. Clive continues “It’s about 8-10km to the main river, and easy to navigate, just follow the current. The water level in this section of the Kafue is controlled by discharge from Itezhe-Tezhi, about 80km upstream. In May the water is high and during our 2014 visit, was still flowing into the lakes and dambos of the flood plain.” The just completed 2015 visit saw them fishing water almost two meters lower, so time of year in not necessarily an indicator. “The river is wide and winding and up to 20 feet deep on the outside river bends where the current is strongest. Vegetation is thick on both banks and consists of huge waterberry trees, a variety of thorn bushes, reeds and grasses. Again a fully equipped bass boat is ideal with a good trolling motor to hold position in the strong current.” The opportunity to fish the river at two meters lower this year, gave Clive and Derek the opportunity to see exposed structure - tree root systems and rocks - they had actually been boating over and fishing in 2014. Clive reports the nembwe were still there, but not in the numbers of their 2014 trip. Ranging further downstream this year, they fished rock ridges crossing the river (underwater in 2014), and even picked up some good pinkies or Redbreast bream (Tilapia rendalli), as well as more Thinface largemouth bream in the main channels.
While pike are an interesting species to catch in the Kafue, and abundant, and other bream will be caught, the Kafue is really for the purist nembwe fisherman. The Upper Zambezi above Victoria Falls does produce largemouth bream, though they are not as prolific, and due to the easy access, under greater pressure, both from sport and commercial fisherman. “We caught only Nembwe - mostly big males, three to five pounds.” says Clive. “Our most productive spots were the vertical clay banks, pitching 3/8 oz. weedless jigs (black/red) dressed with a red craw trailer. Some bites occur visually only inches from the surface and the mud bank - real heart stopping stuff! Often a missed strike will result in a second bite as the fish are very aggressive and super quick giving an amazing fight when hooked.”
Tackle consisted of 7 foot, medium heavy G Loomis bait casting rods with a Curado E-7 reel spooled with 14lb clear fluorocarbon. Clive reminds anglers “Remember to re-tie often as these robbies have extra long, sharp teeth, perhaps they have adapted to eating the red claw cray?”
 May 2015 with the river almost two meters lower showing the roots where the fish would of been holding in 2014 |  May 2015 with the river almost two meters lower showing the roots where the fish would of been holding in 2014 |  May 2015 with the river almost two meters lower showing the roots where the fish would of been holding in 2014 |
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 May 2015 with the river almost two meters lower showing the roots where the fish would of been holding in 2014 |
The largemouth bream are a sensitive and finite species. Experience has shown, that it is entirely possible to deplete nembwe in an area within a few days by over-fishing it. Catch and release is the name of the game, and few Zambians will be impressed with the “cooler-box brigade” exploiting this amazing sport fish. Respect their home waters and leave as good visitors, safeguarding this pristine resource for those who follow.
Space does not allow truly comprehensive coverage of all that is the Kafue, but a visit or call to Clive will be most informative (+263-4-885660). The Kafue has much to offer the adventure angler, though accommodation and access points need careful research. Most access points require a night stop-over at Kariba or Livingstone (if traveling through the Falls), and expect a full day’s travel on the Zambian side. Alternatively, Lusaka would be a good stopping point before proceeding to the river. The main Livingstone-Lusaka highway is a busy road, so expect to take it easy. As to which area was best, Derek says “Both have their points. I think the lower section has better fish, but the upper section is very different and interesting and there is still much to learn of both sections, so my advice – fish them both !!” Clive says their first trip to the upper Kafue and in the game park was the best. “Here, you really feel like you are in the wilderness... no noise, no sounds of trees being chopped, no people to speak of, and no litter! The river is spectacular and fishing not bad. Added to which, the bird life and game is amazing.” says Clive.
Route to Namwala: This trip was done in a day, leaving Harare at 3am and driving through Chirundu. After the border, turn left on T1 to Mazabuka, through Choma, then north west 170km to Namwala. This is the easiest route to access the Kafue, tar road all the way and completed in one full day from Harare.
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AN OVERVIEW OF KAFUE RIVER COURSE - The river follows a course of approximately 960 kilometres, rising on the Congo/Zambia border close to Kipushi (near Lubumbashi in the Congo), it makes its way southward and before it reaches the Copperbelt towns, it loses its wide flood plain narrowing to 30–40 metres and meanders less. The character of the river forms a less meandering dry-season channel with sandy banks and islands. Continuing south-west it enters the Kafue National Park, and then skirts the south-east edge of the Busanga Plain, then south through Chunga before turning east as it passes through the Itezhi-Tezhi Gap, the site of the Itezhe Tezhe dam wall. Below Itezhe Tezhe dam, the river flows sluggishly across a flat plain called the Kafue Flats and for the third time develops intricate meanders in a maze of swampy channels and lagoons. This time however it also has an immense shallow flood plain which no roads or railways cross, 240km long and about 50km wide, flooded to a depth of less than a metre in the rainy season (deeper in some lagoons and permanently swampy areas), and drying out to a clayey black soil in the dry season. The Kafue Flats are the third major wildlife area of the river. Tens of thousands of Kafue lechwe live on the Kafue Flats and are adapted to wading the flood. The area also has one of the greatest variety and concentrations of birds in the world. The Lochinvar and Blue Lagoon National Parks have been established on the flats.
The Kafue Flats end at Kafue town and from there, as the rift valley gets deeper, the river drops 550m over 60km through the Kafue Gorge. The Kafue Gorge Dam backs up through part of the gorge back toward the Kafue Flats. Beyond the Kafue Dam, the river meanders little and eventually finds its way to the Zambezi about 60km away. Tiger fishing is often very good at the confluence, as the tiger and other species enjoy the nutrient rich waters of the Kafue.
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